News Alyssa Azar summits Everest

VSG

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Tim Macartney-Snape, Lincoln Hall and Greg Mortimer.

http://www.worldexpeditions.com/au/index.php?section=adventure_news&id=2211131

Three guys from Oz who did it tough. I was at ANU around the same time as two of them. Incidentally. Saw the slide show some months after their return.

From the wiki:

"...In July 1984, a small Australian team headed to the north side of Mt Everest where they prepared and ascended an unclimbed route on the north face, climbing without bottled oxygen in a lightweight alpine style and without the help of high altitude porters. On 3 October 1984, climbing in cross-country ski boots as substitutes for his high altitude climbing boots that had been lost in an earlier avalanche, Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer became the first Australians to climb Mt Everest,[8] an achievement for which he was awarded the Medal of the Order of Australia (OAM) for services to mountaineering.[9] Mt Everest historian, Walt Unsworth, described it as "one of the greatest climbs ever done on the mountain"[10] and American climber, John Roskelley, said, "the Aussies pulled off the coup of the century".[6] ? "
 
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mr

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Tim Macartney-Snape, Lincoln Hall and Greg Mortimer.

http://www.worldexpeditions.com/au/index.php?section=adventure_news&id=2211131

Three guys from Oz who did it tough. I was at ANU around the same time as two of them. Incidentally. Saw the slide show some months after their return.

From the wiki:

"...In July 1984, a small Australian team headed to the north side of Mt Everest where they prepared and ascended an unclimbed route on the north face, climbing without bottled oxygen in a lightweight alpine style and without the help of high altitude porters. On 3 October 1984, climbing in cross-country ski boots as substitutes for his high altitude climbing boots that had been lost in an earlier avalanche, Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer became the first Australians to climb Mt Everest,[8] an achievement for which he was awarded the Medal of the Order of Australia (OAM) for services to mountaineering.[9] Mt Everest historian, Walt Unsworth, described it as "one of the greatest climbs ever done on the mountain"[10] and American climber, John Roskelley, said, "the Aussies pulled off the coup of the century".[6] ? "

i got the hardback at a garage sale a few years ago....great pix

first ascent in 3 pin leather tele boots. there was actually 5 of them who all contributed to the climb and the ascent. Also Andy henderson and geof bartram
 

climberman

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Tim Macartney-Snape, Lincoln Hall and Greg Mortimer.

http://www.worldexpeditions.com/au/index.php?section=adventure_news&id=2211131

Three guys from Oz who did it tough. I was at ANU around the same time as two of them. Incidentally. Saw the slide show some months after their return.

From the wiki:

"...In July 1984, a small Australian team headed to the north side of Mt Everest where they prepared and ascended an unclimbed route on the north face, climbing without bottled oxygen in a lightweight alpine style and without the help of high altitude porters. On 3 October 1984, climbing in cross-country ski boots as substitutes for his high altitude climbing boots that had been lost in an earlier avalanche, Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer became the first Australians to climb Mt Everest,[8] an achievement for which he was awarded the Medal of the Order of Australia (OAM) for services to mountaineering.[9] Mt Everest historian, Walt Unsworth, described it as "one of the greatest climbs ever done on the mountain"[10] and American climber, John Roskelley, said, "the Aussies pulled off the coup of the century".[6] ? "
@tele-whippet and I chatted about this on the weekend. TW posed (and I agree) that this could not happen on Everest now, simply due to the way the whole shebang is structured. Maybe I can cajole TW to elucidate?
 
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Ubiquitous Steve

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Thanks for the link, that was an interesting article, but even more interesting was the embedded link to Seb Junger's article on PTSD and modern society which covered not just PTSD but how it's effects are often multiplied by a return to "modern society" In other words how mortally dispiriting modern society seems to be experienced mountaineers and combat experienced soldiers to come home to when they have finished their expedition/tour of duty.

Not really related - just interesting...
Bears suffered that PTSD when on reaching Ropers on Sunday they had sprocket tip malfunction>>>>>
and things were terse for a period till Ubi calmed them after some surgery to said tip with a knife blade...

then as Echo 310 revd to optimal speed Ubi it seems had:eek: prevented Bears from going into a psychotic episode of massive proportions.....
 

Rush

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Know nothing about climbing, but an experienced climber ( I think 4 times Everest) on the radio today thought that a major problem is the mountain being so crowded, too many people are spending time waiting to get to the top because of waiting for others to get down which means too much time at high altitude. He reckons that is the big problem.
Good point.
 

GS

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Know nothing about climbing, but an experienced climber ( I think 4 times Everest) on the radio today thought that a major problem is the mountain being so crowded, too many people are spending time waiting to get to the top because of waiting for others to get down which means too much time at high altitude. He reckons that is the big problem.

All climbers should carry skis. Climb up, ski down. Problem solved.
 
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CarveMan

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Given that Sagarmāthā is a sacred mountain and that all you need to climb it is a guide, deep pockets and good level of fitness, it really is about time the mountain was respected (in the same way as Uluru) and climbing was discouraged.
I don't mind that people climb it - just as Mallory said, 'it's there'.

I quite like the Norweigan law that grants the right to roam - you're allowed to travel over all uncultivated land (conditions apply...). Good on anyone who wants to climb a mountain. It doesn't excuse what Everest has become, but if people want to do it then that's fine. In a lot of cases I disagree with their motivations but I don't have a problem with the act.
 

Donza

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I just checked #mteverest and Places- Mount Everest on instagram.
seems popular .
 

Untele-whippet

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@tele-whippet and I chatted about this on the weekend. TW posed (and I agree) that this could not happen on Everest now, simply due to the way the whole shebang is structured. Maybe I can cajole TW to elucidate?
I don't mind that people climb it - just as Mallory said, 'it's there'.

I quite like the Norweigan law that grants the right to roam - you're allowed to travel over all uncultivated land (conditions apply...). Good on anyone who wants to climb a mountain. It doesn't excuse what Everest has become, but if people want to do it then that's fine. In a lot of cases I disagree with their motivations but I don't have a problem with the act.
And there was this debacle. www.outsideonline.com/1929126/brawl-everest-ueli-steck's-story had some heated debating over this one.
I'll put it this way.
It's great conditions and you're experienced and skilled enough to ski the Buller Chutes.
You arrive to find a commercial ski guiding company is running a $1000 ski descent "I skied the Buller Chutes" course. Lovely T-shirt at the end to prove it and wear with well earnt (spent) pride.
The whole area has multiple top belay lines and is chockers with queues and 100 punters being lowered down linking snow plough turns and the boot pack has a fixed line with punters queuing to climb out using ascenders so no one will fall.
You can ski but stay away from "our lines and our clients".
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP43/43-11-sharp-end
 
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CarveMan

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You can ski but stay away from "our lines and our clients".
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP43/43-11-sharp-end

Yeah that's the part I don't get - small independent teams shouldn't be at the whim of the guided ones & dictated to like Steck etc

But in the hills that shit usually gets sorted out naturally - faster, fitter more skilled teams just end up in front of the masses.

I get to my lines at Buller well before the hordes.
 

Untele-whippet

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Yeah that's the part I don't get - small independent teams shouldn't be at the whim of the guided ones & dictated to like Steck etc

But in the hills that shit usually gets sorted out naturally - faster, fitter more skilled teams just end up in front of the masses.

I get to my lines at Buller well before the hordes.
Yes but there are choke points on Everest, like the south col and Hiliary Step where hard routes merge with the commercial highway discouraging skilled small teams and even endangering them.
And given its a multi day outing in a limited time window, it's hard to rock up early every day.
Any hoo, I've had enuff of venting ---- shuffles off to wax skis and sharpen angle grinder.
 
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crackson

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Ubiquitous Steve

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that's what Team Bears need a woman that can pull her weight:cool: and carry our chainsaw from place to place.

LOL...where are these strong women when u need them....
 
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