Austrian virtual ski safari

Our company has been pushing for us to take several days annual leave this quarter to save on leave liability to try and help the bottom line and reduce job losses. It is a bit odd as I am actually quite busy supporting our client who are currently very busy, but I am taking the odd day off here and there, today being one of those.

Taking leave though without being able to travel anywhere though is quite a foreign concept to me. With things as they are at the moment I can't really do any proper travel planning and I have always enjoyed the planning part of any trip.

I have skied in Austria several times and a on couple of those trips I have used the Salzburger Super ski pass which covers a multitude of ski areas, although I have still only skied a few of them - a few days to a week. I have at times wondered how I might do it differently.

So today with not much else to do I wondered how some sort of ski safari would work just using this one ski pass. How may areas could I link up. I had done a couple of ski safari type trips in France. These were group tours where we would use ski lifts to ski form one ski area to the next and some of the backcountry in between whike a an woukd take our luggage to the next town to meet us. These were fun. 1989 was in the Tarantaise region - La Plagne, Les Arcs, Tignes, Valnmorel, Val Thorens, Courchevel but staying in little villages with ski lift access to those areas. In 1994 it was Morzine, Avoriaz, Flaine, Grand Montets and the Vallee Blanche. I figured I could do something a bit similar in Austria, without necessarily any backcountry.

 

So the starting point of this exercise was to look at the ski areas covered by the Super Ski card. There are quite a few as shown below.

 

I thought I would try and link up ski areas connected by ski lifts as much as possible with a few ski buses and trains in between. Looked to come up with a trip traversing from east to west in the above region thereby utilising just this one ski pass.
Ended with a rough plan for a 9 day itinerary from Haus im Ennstal finishing in Zell am Ziller, traversing trough several areas I am familiar with. It traverses 3 Austrian provinces (Steiermark, Salzburg & Tirol). I don't know if I'll ever get to do it, but it is nice to know what may be possible. I reckon I could probably do it on my own just with a backpack, but I imagine a couple or group could do it with a non skiing partner who just drove to each town along the way with all the luggage.

Anyway I'll now start detailing the trip day by day.

Of course also made very good use of the Bergfex website as I would normally, in this case mainly for the trail maps.

Starting in the Ennstal in Styria(Steiermark) which is the home province of most of my relatives so like home for me.

 

Day 1 Haus im Ennstal to Gleiming

Skiing: Hauser Kaibling, Planai, Hochwurzen & Reiteralm

This is in Ski Amade Region Schladming Dachstein (15e in the chart). I have skied in most of the ski areas here a few times but usually only 1 or 2 of them on any day. It hasn't always been possible to link from one to the other by ski lift due to snow cover, so sometimes had to use bus.

This is the region.


I would start at Haus as Hauser Kaibling is the eastern most of the connected ski areas.

This would be a good spot to stay the night before.
https://www.bergfex.com/hauserkaibling/privatzimmer-alois-monika-moser/
€38 with breakfast and only a 2 minute walk to the gondola.


There was another little area which was not connected so skipped that. Hauser Kaibling is also probably my favourite of the Schladming ski areas. Snow was a bit more consistent down to the valley floor and also less busy than on the Planai. So I would certainly do a few top to bottom runs there before catching the link lift over to the Planai. Would do a couple top to bottom runs there also plus a few up the top on Burgstallalm and Mitterhaus.

Then do the run down to Planai west if open otherwise download on that lift then up the Rohrmoos lifts to Hochwurzen. A few runs there then down again to connect with the Reiteralm lift and ski there and finish up somewhere in Gleiming or Pichl in the valley.

Possibly here: https://www.bergfex.com/reiteralm/hotel-brunner/
€65 with breakfast and right by the Silver Jet gondola.


Area covered today.



Day 2 tomorrow...

 

With things as they are at the moment it will be a while before I get the chance and even longer as my original plan for next year was a non skiing spring/summer trip to Europe with my sister catching music festivals and spending time with our relatives in Austria. So for now will just have to imagine it.

 

Of course I can add a few pics from a previous trip to this region in 2015.

Hauser Kaibling


Planai


Planai Mitterhausbahn


Planai west


Hochwurzen

 

No, just late season. Those pics were taken on March 31 & April 1 of that year.
They were the last of my ski days for that trip.

 

Day 2 Gleiming to Radstadt

Skiing: Reiteralm & Fageralm

This would be a pretty easy day. Thought I would have a look at Fageralm having never been there on the way through to Radstadt. This crosses into Salzburg province.
Here is Fagerlam.


It appears to be a fairly small area, so figured I would still start the day on Reiteralm. Reiteralm is where some of the Austrian ski team go training during the season. I have had a few days there in the past. Would probably spend a few hours there before heading down to the bottom of the Silver Jet gondola to catch the skibus to Fageralm (7 mins).


Then ski the afternoon at Fageralm before catching the bus on to Radstadt stopping at the Post Office (another 26 mins) where there are a few places to stay close by.
This place for example 50m away at € 52: http://www.torwirtradstadt.at/


Today's travel

 

A couple of pics of Reiteralm from 2011.

 

Day 3 Radstadt to Bischofshofen

Skiing: Flachau, Wagrain & Alpendorf

There are several ski areas not far from Radstadt, so it could actually be quite a good hub. There is also a local hill which connects to nearby Altenmarkt. I've never actually stayed in Radstadt but have passed through a few times to ski a couple of the nearby ski areas namely Obertauern and Zauchensee. These are both good options but are south and the aim of this trip is traversing east to west, so heading instead to Flachau - home of the great Hermann Maier. Flachau is now also linked to Wagrain and St Johann im Pongau none of which I been to.

Here is the run map.

I'd start the day catching the ski bus from the Radstadt Post office to the gondola at Flachau (22 mins).


The map shows a Hermann Maier tour. I haven't checked the details but it might be worth consideration. The objective of course is to ski the main runs at Flachau before catching the G-link cable car over to Wagrain. Might have time for a run down to the town of Wagrain before working my way back up and traversing across to the Alpendorf side. Then finally getting down to the town of Alpendorf in time for the 4:35 bus to Bischofshofen (20mins).



Could stay here http://www.gasthof-tirolerwirt.at/
About 200m from the railway station for €56.



Today's travel

 

Day 4 Bischofshofen to Saalfelden

Skiing: Hochkõnig region - Mühlbach, Dienten, Hinterhal, Hintermoos & Maria Alm

Now back on familiar territory having skied this region a couple of times. The main difference this time is that I would be starting at the other end. Previously I had started from Maria Alm. I would hope once again to catch up with frienf Josef here for a ski.

Hochkönig region




Start off with the Skibus from Bischofshofen (21 mins) to the Mühlbach Karbachalm gondola.


Have a few nice early runs on Karbachalm. Previously starting from Maria Alm by the time we had made our way over to this side it was late morning and in spring it had already started to slush up. Then have several runs on Schneeberg which is usually pretty good. Having several times done the full Königstour from Maria Alm to Mühlbach and back in a day I know I have plenty of time to do it one way.

Continue on to Wastlhöhe and then Dienten, stopping for lunch at Almhäusl which I have enjoyed previously. A few runs on Hochmaisalm, then the traverse to Hintermoos and up to Aberg. A few more then before crossing over to Natrun and down to the village of Maria Alm.

Stop off at Helli's Apres skibar at the Bachwirt for a beer before catching the bus to Saalfelden (9 mins).


Could then stay here: http://www.gasthaus-zur-bruecke.at
About 200m from the Post office or else 50m from Stadtplatz. € 45



Area covered

 

A few pics from previous trips in 2015 & 2019.

Mühlbach




Almhäusl




Hinterthal


Aberg


Natrun


Maria Alm


Helli's Apres bar

 

Yes I have head that one somewhere along the way.
My favourite though is this classic oldie from the 80's that I heard regularly in the 90's - especially in Ischgl and still occasionally in later years.


Lyrics here: https://www.oktoberfest-songs.com/furstenfeld-lyrics.html
* of course the German is very much Steierisch.

 

Day 5 Saalfelden to Fieberbrunn

Skiing: Leogang, Saalbach, Hinterglemm & Fieberbrunn

Some more familiar terrain, which is now even bigger than when I was there last year with the link to Zell am See/Schmittenhöhe. It is massive!

Would start again with a skibus from Saalfelden to the Steinberg gondola at Leogang (23 mins).


A couple nice cruisers there, maybe also to the Asitzbahn before heading over to Grosser Asitz. From there it would be possible to do the run down to Viehhofen and catch the new Zell am See Express to Schmittenhöhe, but I'm not sure time would permit me to do that, then back track and still be able to make it to Fieberbrunn, 2 valleys away.

So instead I think I would just make my way over to the Kohlmaisbahn and Saalbach. A couple there, then over to Bernkogel & Reiterkogel. Then depending on how time was going Hochalm for a few and maybe lunch, before returning to Reiterkogel and skiing down to the TirolS link lift across to Fieberbrunn. So now in Tirol.

Then still plenty to do on the Fieberbrunn side. A few runs on Reckmoos Süd, then down Reckmoos Nord, Maiskopf and down Fieberbrunn village. Maybe a run on Lärchfilzkogel if still time.

Then could stay here a bit down the road. https://www.boutiquelodge.at
€60 to €80



Ground covered today.

 

Pics from this region from 2019.

Leogang




Saalbach




Hinterglemm


Fieberbrunn

 

Need a bigger house.

Backpack would depend on how much washing you wanted to do and whether you wanted to do any backcountry.

I can go pretty light, merino layers go pretty well for several days, and I've done plenty of hand basin washing before.

I have my old 40L Macpac Rocketeer which would certainly be big enough. That is what I used on my hut to hut tours in the Alps in the past which was including touring and avi gear. But bigger than what I would like for just resort skiing. Would just have to pack what I really need and avoid the temptation to over pack.

Then I have my Lowe Alpine Strike 24 which I use for heli with shovel, probe, jacket or for resort skiing to carry my shoes when I'm not using a locker. It would probably be a stretch to carry what I want for a week though.

Would need space for shoes, pants for the evening, extra merino layers, jocks & socks, toothbrush, phone & charger, water bottle, sunblock, camera. The laptop would have to stay behind though.

Alternative is to have a non skiing partner who can drive to each location with your luggage, shopping and sightseeing on the way. Would be plenty of good shopping & sightseeing opportunities on the way. Could even meet up for lunch in some cases.

 

Day 6 Fieberbrunn to Kitzbühel

Skiing: St Johann in Tirol & Oberndorf

Next 3 days on mostly unfamiliar terrain. Skiing here:



This is St Johann in Tirol as opposed to St Johann im Pongau that we passed by a couple of days ago.

Start off once again with a bus from Fieberbrunn to the Eichenhof lift at St Johann (13 mins).



It isn't a huge ski area so will have plenty of time for multiple runs and check out the area, maybe lunch down in St Johann village before heading across to the Oberndorf side.

Down to Oberndorf village and a short walk to the railway station and probably catch the 4:57pm local train to Kitzbühel (8 mins).



Accommodation prices much steeper here, like the Streif. It is Kitzbühel after all.
An interesting option though would be here http://www.pension-hinterseer.at
Up the slope from the Hahnenkamm station for around €130. Run by the younger brother of Hansi.
If you got an earlier train you could even take the lift up and ski down to it.


Todays route

 

Day 7 Kitzbühel to Hollersbach

Skiing: Kitzbühel, Jochberg, Pass Thurn & Hollersbach

A fair bit of terrain to cover today.


Start the day by heading up the Hahnenkammbahn and have a warm up run down the Strief - well maybe not
But certainly have a look.

I did visit Kitzbühel briefly for a day back in 1989. Was very busy at the time and hard to find accommodation. The Streif was then mostly closed due to lack of snow. Skied a bit on Kitzbühel Horn side and on Pengelstein.

Head up and check out Pengelstein, then catch the link gondola over to Wurzhöhe. Do a run or tow down to Jochberg, then continue to work around to Bärenland then up to Zweitausender (very imaginative name), around to Pass Thurn, back up to Resterhöhe, then ski down to midstation of the Panoramabahn. It looks like you have to then catch the gondola down to the village of Hollersbach. And in so doing we have crossed back into Salzburg from Tirol.

The Panoramabahn is a bit out of the town, so probably want to catch the ski bus.


Could stay here for €62: https://herz3.com/



Ground covered:

 

Pics from Kitzbühel from 1989

 

Day 8 Hollersbach to Krimml

Skiing: Wildkogel arena (Bramberg, Neukirchen)

Continuing on in Salzburg province. Here is the Wildkogel arena.




Starting the day catching the Pinzgauer local train which comes from Zell am See.
5 stops to Bramberg (10 mins).


From there a few minutes walk to the Bramberg Smaragdbahn gondola. Plenty of time to check out this area, says it is 85% rad and blue pistes, so pretty cruisy. Looks like a black and a ski route from the Pfeifferköpfl chair. Finally do the run down to the village of Neukirchen am Grossvenediger.

Then another fairly short walk to the train station on the same train line as in the morning and continue on to the end station of Krimml, 5 stops later (11 mins).


The Krimml station is a bit before the town of Krimml itself. It is really Vorderkrimml.
Could stay at this place next to the station for €70. http://www.pensionmarienhof.at/


Krimml is also known for the waterfalls.


Ground covered

 

Day 9 Krimml to Zell am Ziller

Skiing: Zillerta Arena (Hochkrimml, Königsleiten, Gerlos, Zell im Ziller)

Final day of the trip (at least using this ski pass). I have skied this region once previously but coming from the Zillertal end. Then I got as far as Königsleiten, but opted to then turn back to make sure I got back to Zell.

Here is the ski area.


Start off with the skibus from Krimml to the Hochkrimml Filzstein area (23mins).


Up to Plattenkogel, down to Gerlospass, up to Königsleitenspitze where I seem to recall there were several gondolas meeting up at that peak. Do a few runs off the various sides before heading down Fussalm to connect with the Krummbach Xpress lift. Have a run or two down into Gerlos and maybe a lunch stop?

Then up the Dorfbahn lifts to Isskogel, continue on to Krimmlalm and Übergangsjoch. Down to Rosenalm and up to Karsptiz and finish with a long run down to the base off the Rosenalmbahn. From there catch the skibus back to Zell am Zillertal railway station (7 mins).


If not immediately moving on could stay here for around €50:
http://www.maximilian-zell.at


Ground covered

 

This ends the trip on the Super Ski card as this is about the western most point covered by that pass. Not too bad.

Of course though there are several other good ski areas in the Zillertal - Hintertux glacier, Finkenberg, Hochzillertal and especially Hochfügen all accessible via the Zillertal train. You just need a different ski pass to ski them.

Otherwise catch the local train up to Jenbach and continue on.

 

Some pics of Zillertal Arena from 2013

Königsleiten


Gerlos






Zell im Ziller






Zillertal


Zillertal bahn

 

This is the ground covered in the 9 days covered by the one ski pass.
A distance by road of about 250km. The skiing distance much, much more.
The above trip also included 10 bus trips total duration 171mins and 3 train trips total duration 28mins.

 

Reposting the area covered by the Super Ski Card.
This 9 day trip traversed the following regions. 15e, 15a, 15d, 6, 5, 4, 7 & 3.
But still plenty of other regions, so there would be several other possible itineraries.

 

I have now gone back and added a possible accommodation option for each day.