Autumn Surf Thread

Discussion in 'Alpine & Snow' started by churchy, Mar 2, 2006.

  1. Richard T

    Richard T First Runs

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    PMG, R&C, thermalbne...thanks guys for offering to take photos tomorrow and post them. That would be very kind of you. [​IMG]
     
    #51 Richard T, Mar 27, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  2. thermalben

    thermalben Hard Yards

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    Not sure why there's no-one out at the Queenie bommie this morning. Conditions are perfect, there are solid 10-12' sets, and it's breaking really well. I was looking forward to seeing some tow-in action on the cam today!
     
  3. thermalben

    thermalben Hard Yards

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    I spoke to soon! 10 secs after I posted, a tow-in crew came into view and nearly got cleaned up by a huge set.

    Now THIS is more like it! *grabs popcorn*
     
  4. Richard T

    Richard T First Runs

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    No one out at Queensie? Ohhh...an email from last night

    I guess my mates AJ and Tom aren't out at the bombie this morning then hey thermalben! [​IMG] I was hoping to hear tales of epic death pits. [​IMG]

    Keep me posted please! Can you see the Bower? Where is surfable?

    :cheers: mate!

    Me.
     
    #54 Richard T, Mar 28, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 25, 2013
  5. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    One of those mornings where you pull up in the dark and wait for the light to slowly build. In the space of 5 mins there are 25 cars all peering through the mist at the walls of white breaking across the shelf. So as the light lifts and the first 3 guinea pigs paddle out and get swept down the beach ya think ... 6'6 or 7'2" and ... is Huey gonna let me out the easy way or the hard way. Briefly you check the rock off as there are a few lulls in the action but with the 1.9m high tide that looks doable but very, very sketchy. Okay ya grab the 6'6" as the face look workable and ya gamble on paddle in power vis carveability. Ya head down to the creek on the edge of the rocks and have a chat with the bloke that is having his second go at paddling out. In mid sentence ya plunge in and paddle ya guts out trying to stay cloes to the rocks and in the sweep going east knowing that when the sets come you will be washed south but ya want to be as far east as you can be before that happens to hit the channle square and fit between the lefts comeing off the shelf and the big old rolling right that links in from the otherside of the channel ... fork me the lull is hanging in and you are out with only two duckdives and a whole lot of thanks Huey. So ya paddle out to the takeoff zone and sit amongst the crew getting our bearings and waiting, watching for the sets to see how they go. A set looms on the horizon and you paddle a little wide and let it go and make a mental note ... "don't blow the takeoff". Ya have a bit of a chat and soak in the nervous energy and one looms up with you name on it. Ya turn and paddle with two others but they drop off because on days like this the man in the zone is the chosen one. So ya paddle like made and it starts to jack and little "ohs ohs" try to enter your clam place but you shut them out and feel the pitch and jump to your feet and plunge down the face with that tiny but critical space between you and the lip. Ya draw out the bottom turn and keep the board on a long smooth arc and drwa it out back up to the lip and down and up and cut back and stretch the section and down and slash and cut back and on and on into the beach.

    Then ya paddle back out all buzzing and alive and catch another one. Then ya paddle back out all buzzing and alive and just when you are almost back in the line up a massive set looms up and breaks 5ft in front of you and you feel a little tug on your ankle and the weakest taiwanese crap legrope swivel link is severed and your floating 1.5km offshore in an 8ft + impact zone. swimming, swimming, swimming, swimming, swimming, swimming smashed on the shore, pummelled in the wash ya arrive back on the beach and go FORK IT!!!!!!

    anyway thats what I did this morning.

    Two hell waves and a bit of a swim. Gotta go to work now. Mentawis in 3.5 weeks.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #55 dawooduck, Mar 28, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  6. Richard T

    Richard T First Runs

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    Not the case in Sydney. It's the worst on the big days when a couple of thousand testicles (each with a man attached) all descend on the half a dozen Northern Beaches spots that handle +8ft.

    But if ya can't go surfing today, reading that was the next best thing.

    :cheers: R&C.
     
    #56 Richard T, Mar 28, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 25, 2013
  7. thermalben

    thermalben Hard Yards

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    Bloody hell. Just saw a bloke PADDLE into a wave out there ('bout time!). He stood up and the face was probably 15', but it didn't even break! Just capped briefly and sent him on his way. How big must those sets be that are breaking top to bottom? [​IMG]
     
    #57 thermalben, Mar 28, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  8. Snow Blowey

    Snow Blowey Old n' Crusty Ski Pass: Gold

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    Was watching guys tow in at Tamarama just a bit earlier. Very impressive. Saw one guy ride from far north side of tamarama about mid way across Bronte on one wave.

    Maroubra seemed to have the cleanest swell of the eastern beaches but there was noone out there.
     
  9. snowdj

    snowdj First Runs

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    :headbang: am stuck at work but my boss said he might give me an early mark to go surfing [​IMG] fingers crossed. i been hoping for a swell like this for ages. i been living where i am now for over 6 months nad i know when the swell is right the reefs get narly but great. and till now we havent had enough swell but its ooooorrrrnnnn now baby. todays my last chance this week to get out amongst it too so i hope i get that early mark
     
    #59 snowdj, Mar 28, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  10. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    Well the second session was nice. Took out a neighbours 7'2" he reckons I should take to Indo with us. Got two of the big sets just off the peak to see how it went and find the sweet spot. Screaming take off into a big fast wall with some little lip pockets to play with. I then moved onto the peak and picked off two of the smaller (6') sets and had some serious fun on the shallow run out tide shelf and fast walling wave.

    Paddled back out and sat around for a while having a chat, lined up a bigger set from the inside position and it jacked a little early as I got to my feet. I made the drop drew out the bottom turn and got swallowed whole into the green room of oblivion.

    The score so far is:
    Two sessions
    about 8 waves
    1 legrope
    and

    [​IMG]

    The swell is dying fast up here and loosing its gnarlyness but there will be lots of nice waves around for the rest of the day.

    I need a rest now, after all I am sick. [​IMG]
     
    #60 dawooduck, Mar 28, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  11. climberman

    climberman CloudRide1000 Legend Ski Pass: Gold

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    Nice work R&C. I am jelous. Not so much of the surf (although that also) but that I am just so far away from that these days. No match fitness. These are the days to live for.

    Some Queensie Bombie shots from thismorning at the end of this thread
     
    #61 climberman, Mar 28, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 14, 2013
  12. snowdj

    snowdj First Runs

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    nothing worse than snapping a borrowed board. did it once though what made it worse was that the board was only a few weeks old and i didnt ask him. however he got a new board out of it though so he was cool about it. another mate had it happen to him last month in the local boardriders, 2nd round he ripped a fin out of his so he borrowed a mates board for the semis and came in with it in 2 peices. worst feeling.
     
  13. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    Yeh is usck breaking borrowed stuff. My neighbour kept telling me "take out the 7'2" ... so I did. I caught a few and was thinking yep I will buy this one off him for Indo and .... snap. I have a 7'4" battleship in the garage but it is a bit meaty.

    My neighbour is a know local shaper and it was his "old" pin he made for last years Indo trip. He was riding his latest 7'2" made for this Indo trip. He is also finishing off a 6'8" pin for me at the moment. We will work something out. Only the third board I have snapped in 30+ yrs. Broke\bent mores skis in a shorter time.

    A nice 24hrs of swell. I am not that physically fit, just a crusty old dog like all the crusty old "Grand Master" over 45 dogs around these parts. Good to see some of the young crew getting amongst it this morning. There are some solid surfers amongst the new teen guard.
     
  14. adminvb

    adminvb First Runs

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    Good stuff R&C. Expensive surf though. [​IMG]
     
    #64 adminvb, Mar 28, 2006
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2013
  15. snowdj

    snowdj First Runs

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    i went through a period there when i was surfing heaps of comps i was snapping boards every 6 months or so. i soon figured out light glass jobs arent that great and the bank account didnt like it. so now i get double glass on the deck i dont mind the extra little weight. my main board now is 3 years old and only got 1 compression only happened 2 weeks ago. but yeah theres quiet a few grommets starting to come through round the norah head area too. its interesting watching them in the bigger solider waves though u can see the adrenalin is pumping in them
     
  16. Snow Blowey

    Snow Blowey Old n' Crusty Ski Pass: Gold

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    This is what i was watching this morning. (Taken from Aquabumps). Hope its still cranking in the morning.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #66 Snow Blowey, Mar 28, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  17. Graeme

    Graeme First Runs Endless Winter

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    well my day was much like R&C's including broken leggie but not broken board - some hammerings including a big blown late takeoff and a 10+ closeout on the head; some great waves small in number but big on memory space
     
  18. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    Nice 4ft + waves today as well. Find somewhere out of the SE breeze though.

    I like that Graeme ... "small in number but big on memory space".
     
  19. snowdj

    snowdj First Runs

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    i scored some beauties out norha head yesterday R&C. i almost paddled out JD's but since there was noone else out and it was already after 6 when i got there i decided against it ( a little to sharky feeling) scored backdoor going off though the tide was a bit low still then we ran out of day light but i reckon it would've been working for the early this morning perfect swell direction
     
  20. Toto Warmlet

    Toto Warmlet One of Us

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    Tuesday's NZ mirror image, not quite the Queenscliff Bombie but nicely lined up in New Plymouth...not firing off too well , odd directioned swell for here
    [​IMG]
     
    #70 Toto Warmlet, Mar 29, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  21. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    Nice Toto. What the temperature like? It looks chilly
     
  22. Snow Blowey

    Snow Blowey Old n' Crusty Ski Pass: Gold

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    Another big low forecast to sit in the tasman for a couple of days next week. Should be more good news for the surfers.
     
  23. Toto Warmlet

    Toto Warmlet One of Us

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    positively balmy R&C, 18 deg in the water and an almost tropical 22 on land, which makes a change as the offshore SE wind in winter come via the mountain and are usually strong ,with air temps @ 12..>with horrible windchill.
     
  24. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    Makes me chilly us reading your post toto.

    Pumping Box and big brown rollers down Ummmina way yesterday and this morning. I am stuffed.
     
  25. climberman

    climberman CloudRide1000 Legend Ski Pass: Gold

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    Boxes ! thought it must be dooon it. Linking ?
     
  26. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    yup and streaming offshore

    bloody ***** of a paddle and cold
     
  27. Spiceman

    Spiceman Part of the Furniture

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    I miss the box! [​IMG] [​IMG] I miss the east coast! [​IMG] [​IMG] I think I'm going to have to change jobs here..
     
    #77 Spiceman, Apr 2, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  28. adminvb

    adminvb First Runs

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    Where'd you go Spicey - I thought you were still in QLD?
    Still pumpin' today by the way. Might try to sneak off work early later on. The MRF for later in the week looks like a carbon copy of late last week with another low moving across the lower Tasman.
     
  29. Spiceman

    Spiceman Part of the Furniture

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    I'm in Perth with a nice view of the Swan River... :headbang: :headbang: :tany: :tany: if you like that sought of thing!! Looking at it now, it looks glassy and flat!
     
  30. adminvb

    adminvb First Runs

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    Bugger. Pretty ignorant of surfing in Perth - take it that Rottnest is a mitigating factor?
     
  31. Spiceman

    Spiceman Part of the Furniture

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    Yeah it doesn't help but there's a lot of other reefs that seem to block the swell in most places. Scarborough and Trigg seem to pick up the most swell and then prolly Yanchep to the north and Secret Harbour to the south.. Mandurah is fickle but has some great reef breaks like Melros and Gearies, I use to surf a abit down near the dawesville cut going back a few years but not sure what it's like now..

    Cape Naturalist and the Caves road stretch are great for picking up swell but just too far from where I am to really enjoy it.
     
  32. Spiceman

    Spiceman Part of the Furniture

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    Oh and off course there is some great stuff on Rotto itself.. but don't get out there much at all.
     
  33. Alex.C

    Alex.C One of Us

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    Going surfing? :p

    [​IMG]
     
    #83 Alex.C, Apr 5, 2006
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  34. thermalben

    thermalben Hard Yards

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    A few big 'uns in NSW on Monday.

    [​IMG]
     
    #84 thermalben, Apr 5, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  35. snowdj

    snowdj First Runs

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    looking at my usual resources its looking like we could be in for some more bigguns on sunday and monday. i better not put the gun away just yet
     
  36. adminvb

    adminvb First Runs

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    That's a big wave, Ben. Region?
     
  37. adminvb

    adminvb First Runs

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    Thanks for the info, Spicey. Must get over to WA some time.
     
  38. Pied_Piper

    Pied_Piper First Runs

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    Rotto has some truly world class waves.
    Especially if you have access to a boat, can be pretty wremote though, I almost drowned at rotto twice in younger days.

    Paddling almost 2km's out to see to surf a perfect peak is not a good idea.
     
  39. thermalben

    thermalben Hard Yards

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    Can't give too much away PMG, but it's south of Newcastle and north of Eden. The fellas really want to keep this one under their hats. Sorry [​IMG]
     
    #89 thermalben, Apr 5, 2006
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  40. adminvb

    adminvb First Runs

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    That's cool Ben. I was only expecting north coast, south coast etc. anyway.
    You wouldn't see me out there may I add. [​IMG]
     
    #90 adminvb, Apr 5, 2006
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2013
  41. Guru08

    Guru08 First Runs

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    Hey Ben, frequent reader, infrequent poster. Love the site.

    Quick question... is it possible for vicco to get a south east swell? Does anyone have any saved charts that have (might have) produced what would be a very rare event??
     
  42. gadunkgadunk

    gadunkgadunk First Runs

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    There is no way that that wave is any bigger than 6foot!
     
  43. shark

    shark A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    [​IMG]
     
    #93 shark, Apr 5, 2006
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  44. thermalben

    thermalben Hard Yards

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    Thanks Guru08. Yep, it is possible, but they're very rare as you mentioned. Actually, there are several kinds of SE swells possible in Vicco (I assume we're talking about the Mornington peninsula and the Surf Coast?). Local SE swells are common in summer, and can occasionally produce really good waves along the GOR. Deep Tasman lows can produce stronger groundswell events that can filter through Flinders Island and King Island to a degree, but they're very fickle.

    In fact, it's a little known fact that these rare SE groundswells are perfect for Bells - the inside bowl actually barrels really nicely as the swell is hitting it more square-on. Lorne also does really well out of SE swells (both ground/wind) - last weekend was a classic example in fact, where there were shoulder/head high waves at Lorne but it was almost flat at Portsea.

    I don't have any archived charts for these kinds of events though.. sorry!
     
    #94 thermalben, Apr 5, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 17, 2013
  45. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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    Hey ben, just looking at the charts, very hard to say what the low in the sthn tasman will do friday/saturday/sunday, but having a look at several different models it appears that it might peak just east of TAS and send the strongest part of the fetch more towards the NE therefore missing the NSW coast. There is no doubt that it will be big come sunday especially, but chances of seeing a bigger event than the E swell of 2 weeks ago don't look as good, especially the fact that it will be too S to make it's real presence felt!
    Teahupoo must be copping it at the moment though.....
     
  46. Yato

    Yato Hard Yards

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    At this stage the weekend is looking very good for Surfest up here in Newy. Funny how it is like a lake at present, but come the w/e big waves are expected. Amazing what a day or so can bring!

    Looking at the wind/swell/size, Merewether could provide one of the best settings for a Surfest final in quite some time on sunday.

    Any thoughts on just how good this swell may be for the final?
     
  47. thermalben

    thermalben Hard Yards

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    IMO - it may possibly become a little too big for the comp at Merewether on Sunday, and it'll be quite windy at times out of the S/SW (after a period of lighter SW winds in the morning). Merewether can certainly handle some size, but whether it's "contestable" is another thing altogether. There are also other considerations - like how does the webcast team get connected at Merewether (when they're currently set up at Newcastle - a microwave link could be hard), and what about judges facilities, viewing areas for spectators, etc.. Things can certainly get tricky for Pro events under these scenarios.
     
  48. thermalben

    thermalben Hard Yards

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    They're two completely different swells. Wave height speaking, this developing system has the potential to produce much larger surf than the system of a couple of weeks ago, due to the closer proximity to the mainland (wave heights lose a considerable amount of size as they track across the ocean). However, this will be felt at only the exposed south-facing locations.

    It's all relative too. The image (above) of the large wave occured last Monday in NSW. This same day peaked around 10' at a handful of "south-facing magnets", managed to bump up Bondi into the 6-8' range and delivered 5-6' surf along Syd's northern beaches. Yet here's a bommie that's significantly larger than anything ridden along the East Coast in years - and even bigger than the large surf experienced during the easterly swell the week prior.

    This impending low in the Tasman Sea is significantly stronger than the low that generated Monday's massive waves at this bommie. Therefore, it would be fair to assume that this bommie would be considerably larger (!) on Sunday, albeit heavily wind affected.
    Actually, Teahupoo's swell window doesn't extend into the Tasman Sea, so it won't see anything from this system. However, I'd be expecting 15-18' tow-ins at Cloudbreak sometime around Tuesday of next week.
     
    #98 thermalben, Apr 6, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 25, 2013
  49. Yato

    Yato Hard Yards

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    Yes could be very interesting.....SW winds will be fine for Merewether, long as its not too gale force.

    They ran the comp out of Merewether on Monday this week, which produced some great waves, so if the size isn't too big should be fine. Giving the time constraints that affect all the comps in the Aust. season, it will have to finish on sun., so I don't think the webcast will be considered. (wasn't online Mon. either) Plenty of room for spectators as well, so hopefully it will be a great spectacle.
     
    #99 Yato, Apr 6, 2006
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  50. thermalben

    thermalben Hard Yards

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    Northern Beaches
    Actually, I gotta disagree with you there Yato - webcasts are one of the biggest exposure channels for these events, if not THE biggest. It is very important that the webcast is online, especially considering the $$ they spend on setting up the broadcasts.

    The reason Monday wasn't too much of a problem was because it was Day 1. All of Monday's surfers were unseeded (lots of no-names, as far as the general public is concerned), but once we get to the weekend, we've got huge drawcards like Kelly and Occy surfing. These guys probably pull the highest percentage of web traffic on their own, and when you're looking at this on an international level, really shows how important that the webcast is up and running for the finals.
     
    #100 thermalben, Apr 6, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 17, 2013