Autumn Surf Thread

Discussion in 'Alpine & Snow' started by churchy, Mar 2, 2006.

  1. adminvb

    adminvb First Runs

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    R&C,
    Hope the surf is good for you in the Mentawis. Look forward to some some pics if possible. Are you taking the junior R&C?
     
  2. SAsurfa

    SAsurfa One of Us

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    Well the change never came across till late evening yesterday so the wind was crosshore westerly down at victor keeping the conditions clean. Went out at the dump and it was really good at 4-6' but went a bit average about mid arvo as it was very backwashy due to a massive tide or something?? there was practically no sand showing along the whole coast, can you give any explanation Ben?? so that made the takeoff a bit harder as you would paddle and just as you were about to paddle into the drop a wave would come towards you and hold you back from taking off :S and the crowd didn't help either!

    I christened my new board there(6'2 cutloose) and it performed awesomely holding the line and turns exceptionally well, so it was a great day out there [​IMG]

    Ben, could the massive tides or whatever it is be caused by the low pressure system which created this swell, pushing all the water up into the coast from the winds?
     
    #152 SAsurfa, Apr 21, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  3. thermalben

    thermalben Hard Yards

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    Absolutely SAsurfa - without going into too much detail (got a really busy arvo), it's a phenomenon known as a "coastally trapped wave". Quoting from an article I wrote about four years ago (for "The Southern Surfer" magazine):
    Also, there is a relationship between sea surface height and barometric pressure, called the "inverse barometer effect". If we take the average MSLP as being 1013hPa, every 1hPa higher than this decreases the sea surface level by 1cm (this also works the other way - 1cm increase for every 1hPa decrease).

    Therefore, if you have a 993hPa low sitting close to the coastline, you would expect sea surface heights to be 20cm higher than normal.

    This is how storm surges occur in cyclonic conditions - galeforce onshore winds drive the water further inshore, the inverse barometer effect increases the sea surface level (a TC of 933hpa would raise water levels by 0.8m!) and heavy rainfall all combine to create lots of problems near the coastline.
     
    #153 thermalben, Apr 21, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 25, 2013
  4. percy_04

    percy_04 First Runs

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    yea ive noticed some very high tides around victor over the weekend...wouldve been interesting in encounter bay where the tide has been lapping the paths on the high...put some swell in there and..
     
  5. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    2 boards 1 6'6" pin + 1 6'6" square
    3 sets fins
    3 leg ropes
    2 boardies
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    NO KIDS
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    Only one sleep to paradise island.

    Hope the swell pumps for ya all and the wind is offshore. Mentawis here I come. Back in two short weeks with more cryptic tales from the Real CC.
     
  6. surfie_guy1

    surfie_guy1 One of Us

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    Ugh, not much variety! Hope you get some big swells.
     
    #156 surfie_guy1, Apr 21, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 17, 2013
  7. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    I broke the 7'2" in the Wati swell remember.

    These two 6'6" boards are different animals. The pin is brand new and shaped for the trip with a nice long concave and hardish rails designed to stick under the lip with casual aplomb. The square is for hacking lips, pivot type slash backs and other fun stuff. I also have a mate taking my 7'4" to ride and if ever gets big enough for this board there is no way he will be paddling around.

    Its all good. A 6'6" is a very good travel size.
     
  8. snowdj

    snowdj First Runs

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    hope u score some awesome waves RC am eagerly awaiting pics on ur return
     
  9. Toto Warmlet

    Toto Warmlet One of Us

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    I thought terra firma was a great place to be today
    [​IMG]
     
    #159 Toto Warmlet, Apr 22, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  10. Toto Warmlet

    Toto Warmlet One of Us

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    'Greenmeadows' south taranaki [​IMG]
     
    #160 Toto Warmlet, Apr 22, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  11. Toto Warmlet

    Toto Warmlet One of Us

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    "Green meadows', like there's the usual cows everywhere on the lush green Taranaki fields, but it's hardly all pastoral and tranquil out there, just doesn't seem an appropriate name does it?
    never been there before, apparently in can hold bigger
    paddle out is straight off the reef in front it seems!
    [​IMG]
     
    #161 Toto Warmlet, Apr 22, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  12. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    Only small 4ft waves at Macaronis so far. Nice but small. Around 6ft on Macs rights and nice smooth faces. Gonna hit HTs later today but the swell is not really pumping. I have some nice gravel rash on my back from the reef but have scored some nice racetrack barrel ... yin and yang.
     
  13. adminvb

    adminvb First Runs

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    Thanks for the report R&C. The WWW really is everywhere these days.
    Back in the 'burbs - not too bad at a certain well known and well populated north side beach in Sydney this morning. Only negative was it got a bit crowded as the morning wore on.
     
  14. adminvb

    adminvb First Runs

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    4 to 8 ft in Syndey this morning depending where you go. Not great quality on the beachies though - closeouts galore. Swell should hang in there for tomorrow at least.
     
  15. Sean

    Sean First Runs

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    Some fun waves at Cronulla Point on friday afternoon- and a few round ones to boot. Pics were from about 4.30 till dark.

    [​IMG]

    He made this one- and got rather deep... woot!
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Rest of them are at http://www.pbase.com/bookster/cronulla28_04_06

    enjoy [​IMG]
     
    #165 Sean, Apr 30, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 14, 2013
  16. snowdj

    snowdj First Runs

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    i scored some all time perfect double overhead waves out at sunset(not the hawiian one) on saturday with only me & my mate out. it was one of those memorable surfs u dont forget in a hurry.
     
  17. The Plowking

    The Plowking Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    #167 The Plowking, May 3, 2006
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  18. Spiceman

    Spiceman Part of the Furniture

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    Surfed Sunset Hawaii on the Booger back in 2003 at around 5ft and thought it was not for the faint hearted at that size, would be a killer with some real size. Hard wave to judge, a bit like Forresters or except Right instead of left and Margaret River. Impact zone changes all the freaking time.
     
    #168 Spiceman, May 4, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 17, 2013
  19. SAsurfa

    SAsurfa One of Us

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    Hey ben what level is that slow moving long wave trough you mentioned in SA's report so I can have a look see.. Is it around the 500hPa level because I can see something there?

    Cheers
     
  20. Cliff-jumper_2000

    Cliff-jumper_2000 First Runs

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    Dont think anyone know how fuking sick the surf has been here since wednesday and is set to continue til this comming wednesday just had another 4 hour surf and now food time then in back out there yiipee D
     
  21. Cliff-jumper_2000

    Cliff-jumper_2000 First Runs

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    #171 Cliff-jumper_2000, May 6, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 17, 2013
  22. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    Mentawis was good. Surfed Macaronis, Lances Right, Thunders, KFCs, HTs, Greenlseeves and a coupla other places I don't recall. Only 4 days of overhead waves and then lots of 3-5ft small clinical perfection. Many barrels and spitting lips but a bit inconsistent and repititious. There are too many people floating around out there. 4 botas = 40 bodies. One bunch of aussies being the biggest dicks followed by the pros snaking people. Brazilians, Spanish and Yanks no worries and friendly. Surfed with Ry Craike and Jamie O'Brien but all they where into was taking the sets, pulling a 360 air and crashing out with a photographer getting shots of the pre crash airs. Photos to follow some time soon.

    A good trip but Mexico was better.
     
  23. thermalben

    thermalben Hard Yards

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    Sounds exactly like my trip there a few years ago. Very crowded, mainly small/mod size (only 2 solid days), and no great desire to go back. Would prefer to do Sumatra by land.
     
  24. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    I found the contrast between demanding first world attitudes paying big $US to float around on a boat or stay in a camp\resort and the chilled out locals paddling around in dugout canoes a little unsettling. There are two more resorts being built which will make the place even more crowded. The "pros" using Macaronis for a money shot photo shoot was also something I thought I would never encounter in my life time. Surfing sure showed its totally exploited status way up in the Mentawis. It was an interesting trip. Lots of "surfers" way out of their depth and quite a few surfers still thinking that they where back home there "own" break. Me, well I got lots of waves. I tended to have a quick daybreak attack and then paddle out at around 1:30pm and surf till dark. This plan seemed to beat the crowds and catch the maximum amount of boat comings and goings (which meant the majority pf boat surfers where either eating, sleeping, fishing or in transit.) I did surf Macaronis by myself twice and generally with a crowd of around 10-15. Surfed 6ft+ Thunders, KFCs & 4ft HTs with 8 and nice hollow lining up 5ft Greenbush with 5 so I did get some pretty special waves. The Mentawis are a lot of money and a very long trip for a fickle and very shared reward. The waves are perfection (as long as the wind doesn't blow) and the environment beautiful though. Pity about the silly angro punters from Oz. At least the Spanish didn't think they owned the place. Lots of laughs, not many cuts and all in all a very interesting holiday.
     
  25. Cliff-jumper_2000

    Cliff-jumper_2000 First Runs

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    Still pumping since i wrote this only one day has been below 4ft and every day been offshore pumping this is what winter should be like every year :woohoo:
     
    #175 Cliff-jumper_2000, May 9, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 17, 2013
  26. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    I enjoyed the couple of days in Pandang. A nice friendly Muslim community, excellent markets, some mighty fine looking wimen and excellent food ….. did I mention it is soooo inexpensive. $5 a T shirt. A bit smelly for many people but hey, that’s what raw food, car exhaust & humanity smells like. No hassles with “wanna buy mister†either. We had quite a few laughs with the locals and the Market traders. The naked kids at Lances where a hoot as well. We fitted them out with legropes, wax and fins for their old mended boards and they caught a few nice little inside waves.
     
  27. Toto Warmlet

    Toto Warmlet One of Us

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    Sounds like a good trip, all told
    glad to hear the ugly Australian just doesn't go to my favourite spot in Japan.
    Ahh. Padang food, food of the gods, Rendang and Padang eggs!
     
  28. snowdj

    snowdj First Runs

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    any pics of the trip R&C?
     
  29. TJ

    TJ One of Us

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    Good waves this morning on the west coast of Vic. 4- 5 foot offshore at Winki but too crowded so went to Point Impossible with good four foot sets rolling in and 8 people out. A-frame set up in the rivermouth looked good as well. Went on shore at about twelve. Three hours in the water and I'm stuffed.
     
  30. SAsurfa

    SAsurfa One of Us

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    Glassy all day yesterday down south with not a puff of wind around :)Was a bit lumpy in the morning but there was a good bank just out from cliffs which was walling up nicely for 30 or so meters. By lunch time it had straightened up nicely and just to the east of the point a good bank was handing out some long left and rights, light southerlies kicked in at around 3 but the late session was still good with plenty of size still around.
     
  31. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    NIce waves this weekend. Not big but clean and ..... fun.
     
  32. snowdj

    snowdj First Runs

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    come on wheres the pics
     
    #182 snowdj, May 22, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 17, 2013
  33. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    The pics are coming. The boys are getting their act together. I didn't take many, too busy surfing.

    Meanwhile here is a sample of some the boys:

    Jamie @ 23 (Macaronis)
    http://www.sickshots.com/galleriesments/maccas/042806i/source/042806macs417.htm

    Kemp @ 52 (Greensleeves)
    http://www.sickshots.com/galleriesments/maccas/042906i/source/042906gb870.htm

    Ben @ 31 (Macaronis)
    http://www.sickshots.com/galleriesments/maccas/042806i/source/042806macs085.htm

    R&C @ 45 (Macaronis)
    http://www.sickshots.com/galleriesments/maccas/042706i/source/042706macs510.htm

    Nev @ 54 (Macaronis)
    http://www.sickshots.com/galleriesments/maccas/042706i/source/042706macs525.htm

    Ed @ 24 (Macaronis)
    http://www.sickshots.com/galleriesments/maccas/042706i/source/042706macs728.htm

    Busted Boats (Bloody fast boats going nowhere)

    [​IMG]

    HTs John @ 53

    [​IMG]
     
    #183 dawooduck, May 22, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 14, 2013
  34. snowdj

    snowdj First Runs

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    very nice pics RC good work :thumbs: i so need to go on an OS surf trip
     
  35. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    Snowdj.

    It is pot luck what you end up getting in the way of surf. I recommend at least going to see what the fuss is about. You will get waves but they may not be the epic waves you imagine … then again they may be. The resort at Macaronis was very nice and a bit cheaper than many of the boat trips (it won’t stay that way once they become more established). If the two resort fast boats had not broken down we would have had the ability to hit the on spots everyday for 10 days. The crowds can be a bit of a problem so mobility is good.

    Another option is too ask around and find a boat that goes to the lesser know spots so you miss the crowds or take a month off and explore the Sumatra coast. I would love to go back for a month or two just chilling.

    :cheers:
     
  36. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    Nice waves this week. Good session Thurs morning, Friday arvo and midday today. Nice and clean variable 2 ft to 5ft at Avocacabana.
     
  37. TJ

    TJ One of Us

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    Some nice clean 3 ft sets at Winki Sunday morning. We were the firsts ones out at about 7:15 and had it to ourselves for about 3/4 of an hour. Very rare for a Sunday morning.
     
  38. faceshots

    faceshots Hard Yards

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    Some really fun waves at sth avalon this am. Everybody is wussing out because of the cold and i have found my self the past two mornings jumping in at 830am with only 2 other guys out.. and it was 3-4ft offshore A-frames!
     
  39. adminvb

    adminvb First Runs

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    No wussing out from me faceshot - just not able to get in for an early Mon to Wed. Come Thursday morning it'll be a different story though. Hopefully the swell will hang in there for another couple of days.
     
  40. churchy

    churchy One of Us

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    i've pulled up stumps until august. it's lame, i know, but i have a recurring rib problem that keeps on coming back (posted about it maybe 1000 times before). it makes me almost completely immobile and it takes me 3 months to return to good health. i love surfing so much that i keep on going and try to manage the risk but i love snowboarding way too much so i can't manage the risk of missing out a whole season [​IMG]
     
    #190 churchy, May 31, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2013
  41. dawooduck

    dawooduck relaxed and comfortable Ski Pass: Gold

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    Nice walling lefts around 4ft with + 3 kids out before school this morning. Starting to get chilly but oh so smooth and snappy.
     
  42. faceshots

    faceshots Hard Yards

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    Another good session at sth av this am! Really fun lefts going into the pool. Bloody cold again..
    I cant remember it being this cold in may before...it feels more like august mornings! Water is still a good temperature though.
    I wonder how this swell we be this weekend..