SUNDAY 13 MARCH 2016 After a fantastic four days in San Martino Di Castrozza the previous week I headed back to the Italian Dolomites hoping for more of the same prior to a family holiday at Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis, Austria. TR: San Martino Di Castrozza, Trentino Dolomites, Italy (01-06 March 2016) https://www.ski.com.au/xf/threads/s...za-trentino-dolomites-italy-march-2016.74212/ Travel day. Caught the Cardiff Airport bus from Cardiff Train Station, Wales at 10.21 - a bargain at £8 return - and 50 minutes later I was having a coffee in the departure lounge. The benefit of flying from a regional airport. I flew with KLM to Innsbruck via Amsterdam for £266.70 Arrived around 5 and after picking up my Opel Zafira Estate diesel through Argus Car Hire with Mega Drive for £424.57 I was on my way to Corvara, Alta Badia. http://www.arguscarhire.com Easy drive over the Brenner Pass and a little over two hours later I was parked up in front of Albergo Alisander, a short drive up from the main gondola and village 'square'. Booked two nights B&B for 163 euros through booking.com Albergo Alisander http://www.alisander.suedtirol.com/ After unpacking I headed down the hill to find some dinner. Great roast pork & mushroom pizza, bottle of red wine and bottle of sparkling water at Villa Caterina for 19 euros. MONDAY 14 MARCH 2016 The view from my balcony this morning The mighty Sassongher, home to the classic Dolimiti Canale (Dolomite Couloir) Val Scura, towering over Corvara Great continental breakfast and then skied down to the Boe gondola and Vallon chair for the skin to Piz Boe (3151m) and the drop in to Val Mesdi On the way to Piz Boe The view from the summit of Piz Boe Val Mesdi Val Mesdi Corvara-Colfosco Ski Area, Alta Badia, Dolomites, Italy Tremendous day and all for 42 euros and a straightforward skin I tried to have dinner at the 1* Michelin restaurant La Stüa de Michil in the Hotel La Perla but they were fully booked. http://www.hotel-laperla.it/en/service-areas/la-stüa-de-michil/142-9792.html So I went to Posta Zirm Hotel instead and had a fantastic two course dinner with drinks for 48 euros http://www.postazirm.com/en/gourmet/dining-experience-hotel-en/ Two very good articles for the opportunities in the area, skiing and eating Couloirs and Michelin stars in the Dolomites http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/27c38f96-7c0a-11e4-a7b8-00144feabdc0.html#axzz44qpqPMJD Couloirs: An off-piste adventure http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/skiing/couloirs-an-off-piste-adventure-9793340.html And if you're looking for a guide then these are the go to guys http://www.altabadiaguides.com/eng/Home/home_49_357.html
TUESDAY 15 MARCH 2016 Dawn broke grey and clammy so I put my plan to ski couloirs in the Passo Pordoi area of Arabba on hold. Packed up the car and headed to the Marmolada glacier to see how the light was down there. The car park was deserted and visibility was better so I headed to the top on the three stage gondola. Before skiing I had a look around the impressive First World War Museum And took in the view from the Marmolada viewing platform The snow was great - boot top dry powder - and for the first couple of laps I skied the runs and between the runs (Punta Rocca, Sass Del Mul Fedaia, Variante Sass Del Muil) back to the base. A whopping 1823m of vertical. The next three laps were down to Lago Di Fedaia with the short traverse back to the Padon A run. Had a quick lunch at the bottom of the gondola (panini, sparkling water for 7.50 euros) and then continued on to San Martino Di Castrozza. I'd booked to stay at Hotel Villa Aurora again. The same massive room with balcony looking out to the Rosetta ski area and free off-road parking. 2-nights B&B accommodation for 102 euros (booked through booking.com) http://www.hotelvillaurora.it/ It started snowing as I brought the last of my gear into the hotel and after a quick shower I headed to my favourite alpine bar Meanwhile back at The Ranch https://www.facebook.com/ranchthedolomitesbar/?fref=ts An evening of gin, grappa, local pork burger and great conversation with Loris and Malika for 45 euros Found a new favourite grappa too. L'Ones Al Cumino Montana - Caraway infused grappa http://www.grappalones.it/en/caraway/
Weren't you in Hokkaido earlier this northern hemisphere season!? Anyway, wow! Incredible skiing. The terrain in the Dolomites looks utterly unique.
Yes. Instructing in December and January. My better half Nerys couldn't make it out to Japan this winter, so I headed back to Europe to ski with her and solo TR: Gudauri Ski Resort, Georgia (January 2016) https://www.ski.com.au/xf/threads/tr-gudauri-ski-resort-georgia-january-2016.73926/ SR: Beacons Ho! 2015-16 Winter Season in the Brecon Beacons National Park, Wales http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=121689 TR: San Martino Di Castrozza, Trentino Dolomites, Italy (March 2016) https://www.ski.com.au/xf/threads/s...za-trentino-dolomites-italy-march-2016.74212/ Been a varied and great winter. Very lucky.
WEDNESDAY 16 MARCH 2016 Between 20-30cm of dry, light powder at village level and the sun breaking through the clouds. Cimon della Palla (3184m) at first light from my balcony at Hotel Villa Aurora Cimon della Palla (3184m) and Rosetta Ski Area at first light from my balcony at Hotel Villa Aurora Rosetta Ski Area at first light from my balcony at Hotel Villa Aurora Got to the Tognola gondola at 8.35am and it was deserted. Three quarters of the way up three guys were skiing down Tognola 1 and that was it. Untracked, deep turns on and off piste all day. It doesn't get much better. Especially for mid-March. Little Parcels Of An Endless Time Deep turns off the Cigolera T-bar Deep turns off the Scandola chair San Martino church San Martino Di Castrozza village San Martino Di Castrozza memorabilia San Martino Di Castrozza village After such a great day it was back to Ranch for more gin, grappa & burgers.
Once again, thanks for sharing your adventures Mike. I did a season in Val di Fassa way back in 2006, and your reports are certainly getting the juices flowing for a return trip to the region.
THURSDAY 17 MARCH 2016 Another bluebird powder day at San Martino - Passo Rolle Ski Area but I had an enforced day off snow. Prior to skiing the line starting at the 2 minute mark in yesterday's video I hit some submerged rocks and got catapulted over the handlebars onto rocks. My left shoulder and sternum took the brunt of the impact and both were heavily bruised. So after breakfast and packing up the car I took the long way round to Trafoi, Ortler Ski Area, Sud Tirol. Sass Maor (2812m) Palazzo Sass Maor I stopped into Ranch, The Dolomites Bar for a coffee and to pick up a bottle of L'Ones Al Cumino Montana - Caraway infused grappa before bidding farewell to Loris and San Martino. View from Passo Rolle Ski Area I detoured via Bormio and Livigno to check out conditions - both excellent - then through one of the funkiest tunnels into Swizterland. There was less snow - but better roads and drivers - on the Swiss side and no snow as I drove up the Stelvio valley to Trafoi. But as I got past Gomagoi snow lay on the side of the road. I was spending two nights at Garni Interski (2 nights B&B 101 euros) http://www.garni-interski.com The small hotel is in a great location about 300m from the beginners ski area and 100m to the lift to the top of Trafoi. Tania the owner is an enigmatic host and the hotel bar is well stocked and well priced. I had dinner at Hotel Post - pizza, bottle of wine, grappa, espresso for 24 euros This is where it all started for me 30 years ago and the main reason I was (re)-visiting Trafoi. My cousin & I had travelled by bus from London for a week's stay at Hotel Post and skiing at Trafoi.
Nice work Mike, terrible views from your hotel. Missed that snowfall as back in the southern hemi by then, but my partner scored some goods a few valleys over. Now that I'm 'forced' to go to northern Italia annually, think more time in the Dolomiti will be on the cards next year. One bone to pick, think you have had far too much snow this winter, thought I did well with six weeks of riding over four countries this year, but your still amongst it!!
Some great 'rooms with a view' Has become my new favourite area, and hoping to show Nerys its wonders next winter. Been very fortunate. Powder on Hokkaido, Wales, Georgia, Italy and a little in Austria. Next week is looking very tempting
FRIDAY 18 MARCH 2016 My first experience of Trafoi 30 years ago was mixed. Great company & laughs, amazing views, good food & drink at Hotel Post, and four days skiing & falling on sheet ice on the village slope. By the third morning I was stuffing my spare clothing down the legs of my salopettes to cushion the blows and limit the bruising. Our beginner group was finally allowed to go to the top of Trafoi lift system on the last day and I realised what I'd been missing. I was blown away by even grander views and there was snow up top! ----- After breakfast I took the short stroll to the chairlift and made my way up the mountain. The lower, south facing slopes were bare except for the pisted run. But from mid-mountain up there was plenty of cover. I warmed up with a couple of runs off the t-bar and the second chair. The shaded north facing slopes held dry, boot top powder, so I put the skins on and headed above the second chair. Looking down on the t-bar, Ortler (3905m) in the distance Ortler As I crested the first hill I saw two people ahead of me skinning up the ridge. I kept my distance so we could all enjoy the views and solitude Yesterday's tracks (not mine) The couple ahead of me turned out to be Toni Stocker, Head Guide with feel-the-mountains based in Solda, and his customer Helen, from Val Gardena. http://www.feel-the-mountains.com/ They were skiing down the ridgeline and then dropping into the north facing terrain, so I took a few shots before I dropped into the untracked N & NE facing bowl. Toni Toni & Helen About to drop in That Friday Feeling I intended to cut a hard right at treeline and traverse back to the lifts but Toni and Helen skied down to me from a different face and Toni kindly offered to give me a lift back up to Trafoi from where they'd left the car. Toni Helen So I followed them down though the trees and on the snow covered mountain road to the Deer Conservation Area just above Stelvio. Close to 1500m of vertical. Into The Valley Back in Trafoi I took the lift back up for lunch (spaghetti bolognaise, mineral water & espresso for 9.4 euros) and then took the home run back to the village. Just shy of 1000 vertical metres of deserted piste to let the skis run. After showering I took a walk to the other end of the village to the peaks that horseshoe the valley. Tania invited me to join her and her friends for dinner at Hotel Tannenheim. Wondeful meal of carpaccio of beef, pork tenderloin, & drinks for 30 euros. A VERY different ski experience compared with my first visit to Trafoi, but thankfully the welcome, sense of community and village hasn't changed in 30 years.
SATURDAY 19 MARCH 2016 It would have been much of the same up there today but I was checking out and heading to Innsbruck airport to pick up my girlfriend Nerys, before heading to Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis, Tirol, Austria for a week long family holiday with my brother Matt, my sister-in-law Laura, and 7-year old nephew Sam. This would be my first time skiing with my nephew. I couldn't wait. Yet another room with a fantastic view, Hotel Garni Interski, Trafoi I bade farewell to Tania at Garni Interski and made my way down the valley. On the way down I stopped at one of the funkiest art installation / museums I've had the pleasure to visit. 1 euro admission in the honesty box. And just before I crossed into Austria I passed this magnificent statue with the Ortler Alps as the backdrop A fantastic six night trip with four very special ski days to remember. Costs Bus from Cardiff Train Station to Cardiff airport £8.00 Flight £266.70 7-day car hire £141.53 Petrol £25.86 Tolls £10.00 2-nights B&B Accommodation at Albergo Alisander £131.74 2-nights B&B Accommodation at Hotel Villa Aurora £82.44 2-nights B&B Accommodation at Garni Interski £81.62 Lift Pass £125.26 Food & drink £28.28 £160.00 Total £1061.43 / 1314 euros / US$ 1496.87 / AUD$ 1978.25 for 6 nights (4 days skiing) To convert to your currency please use this link http://www.xe.com/ Travelling as a pair would reduce these costs significantly - shared cost of car hire, petrol and tolls single room rate per person more expensive than shared room rate per person per night
Looking forward to SFL section Mike, only spent a day there a few years back and viz was poor, but seemed like a huge area. Very distinct snowline in the northern alps this year.
Working on the pics & vids now. Focussed on my 7-year old nephew, so no off-piste stuff to share except for landscape shots. It's a massive area and so glad I went with this forum's recommendation, esp Kletterer. Indeed.
The beautiful sunset shot of the icefall / loose snow cloud dropping off the glacier is a ripper. Makes me miss the mountains.
Can't change the thread title, so here goes for the second part of the Italian Job TR: Bolzano, Verona, Pejo, Solda (26-31 March 2016) SATURDAY 26 MARCH 2016 After a fantastic week at Hotel Lasinga, Fiss skiing Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis, Tirol, Austria with my brother, my sister-in-law & my nephew, my girlfriend Nerys & I headed to Italy. TR: Sefaus-Fiss-Ladis, Tirol, Austria (19-26 March 2016) https://www.ski.com.au/xf/threads/sefaus-fiss-ladis-tirol-austria-19-26-march-2016.74548/ Because we skied until 3pm today we decided to break the trip to Verona up with a night in Bolzano. We stayed at Guesthouse 37 on Via Rosmini through booking.com, which was a short walk to the centre of the city (1 night for 125 euros) http://www.booking.com/hotel/it/gue...dcid=4;dist=0&sb_price_type=total&type=total& There was free parking outside the guesthouse because it was a weekend, but it seems that parking is very difficult in this neighbourhood in the week. For dinner we went to a very cool bar/restaurant Nadamas in Piazza Erbe where we spent the night drinking prosecco and grappa eating Italian tapas. Excellent and all for 56 euros. Bolzano looked a great place the little we saw of it and is a great gateway to the mountains. SUNDAY 27 MARCH 2016 We took a leisurely drive to Verona on Easter Sunday, pasing through small villages on the way. We arrived at our hotel on the fringe of the old town around 2pm and after unpacking the car and parking up in the private courtyard (15 euros per day) we headed into the old town for food and a wander Hotel Arena (2-nights 150 euros) http://www.booking.com/hotel/it/are...roup_adults=2;sb_price_type=total;type=total& Our time in Verona was split between eating, drinking and wandering the streets. Lunch was pizza, prosecco, gewurtztraminer & mineral water at Cafe Rialto (36.80 euros) Followed by prosecco at a very charming side street bar, Oreste Cantina Dal Zovo (9 euros) Then on to cocktails at the quirky Archivio on Via Rosa (2 cocktails each, 24 euros) https://www.facebook.com/ArchiviodiViaRosa Before settling down to dinner at Caffe Monte Baldo across the street (2 courses each, bottle of wine, 2 grappa, 2 prosecco, 2 coffee, 2 mineral water, 83.50 euros) http://www.osteriamontebaldo.com/en/contact-us/ Fantastic day to night with sunshine and warm temps of 16C MONDAY 28 MARCH 2016 Easter Monday was more of the same, except there were a few showers in the morning. Breakfast at Caffe Wallner (9.70 euros) https://www.facebook.com/pages/Caffè-Wallner/1407891369488530 Lunch at El Bacarin (2 courses each, bottle of wine, 2 coffees, 2 mineral water, 57.50 euros) http://www.elbacarin.com/ Walking around Nibbles at La Tradision (2 savoury muffins each, 2 glasses of wine each, 22 euros) S. Giorgio in Braida from Pte. Pietra bridge Nerys Closing the night out at Osteria Del Bugiardo (4 glasses of wine, 2 coffees, 2 grappas, 30.50 euros) http://www.buglioni.it/en/osteria/osteria-verona/ We loved Verona. Easy to navigate, wonderful views, excellent food & drink, very reasonably priced. We didn't do any of the cultural stuff, but there's loads. With a new direct flight from Cardiff to Verona with FlyBe starting at the end of April this could well be mid-point or end to a trip to the Dolomites and South Tyrol in the future.
TUESDAY 29 MARCH 2016 We left Verona bright and early, hightailed it up the motorway to the Trento Nord exit, and made our way to the Val Di Sole. The big hitters in the valley are Folgarida-Marilleva (which is linked to Madonna di Campiglio) and Pass Tonale. http://valdisole.net/EN/Skiing-and-Snowboarding/ http://www.skirama.it/en/ But on the recommendation of Clarky999 from the snowheads forum we headed to the village of Peio Fonti to ski Pejo 3000. http://www.skipejo.it/ We were staying at Hotel Zanella, a short walk from the base area and were lucky enough to check in before we went to skiing. Hotel Zanella (1-night HB with a bottle of wine at dinner, 94.20 euros booked through booking.com) http://www.hotelzanella.it/ Painting of Hotel Zanella in the hotel dining room We parked the car about 100m from the base area, bought two day tickets (68 euros) and made our way to the top of the mountain. Two lifts - the Pejo Fonti-Tarlenta gondola and Pejo 3000 funivar - take you from 1400m to 3000m from where you're able to ski the Val della Mite, Variante dei Monti, Val Scura, and Tarlenta red runs top to bottom for 8km and a vertical drop of 1600m We did two runs top to bottom - dry, chalky packed powder in the bowl, spring piste conditions below - then had lunch at Refugio Scoiattolo at mid-mountain. Delicious mushroom pappardelle, venison with mushrooms and polenta, mineral water, 2 coffees (25.20 euros) After lunch we took the funivar to the top and skied home. No queues; deserted runs; great snow conditions and grooming considering the 'low tide' year, the southerly aspect of the slopes and the warm temperature; amazing views. I scooted off-piste in the Val della Mitte where there was toe tickling powder on a firm base. The potential for lift accessed and skin to off-piste terrain is epic. View from the top of the Pejo 3000 funivar Nerys skiing the Val della Mite Doss dei Cembri Variante dei Monti Val Scura Half Light A couple of aperols in the sunshine at the base area, delicious dinner at the hotel, and then a stroll around Peio Fonti. Had a look at the Thermal Spa Centre and then a few drinks at Pub No.1 http://www.termepejo.it Cracking little village with a great ski area. And part of what looks like a very varied ski arena.
WEDNESDAY 30 MARCH 2016 We had intented to ski Passo Tonale today but the freezing level had skyrocketed overnight with drizzle to 2,500m accompanied by 'Old London Town fog' which reduced visibility to a couple of metres at times. So it was a leisurely drive to our final destination for this trip, Solda. Just around the corner from Trafoi which I'd visited almost two weeks ago. 2 nights B&B at Basecamp Nives, Solda, Ortler Ski Arena, South Tyrol (174.40 euros through booking.com) http://www.sulden-nives.com Great location in the centre of the village, with the bus stop outside. Free on-site parking. Excellent staff and service. Excellent breakfast. And dinner as it turned out. We ate there both nights. Great bar area with wifi. We had a bunk bed room which was spacious for two but might be a little cramped for four. Highly recommended. We took a long walk around the village before dinner. Solda has three ski areas. The Langenstein and Kanzel within walking distance of the main village, and Madritsch at the top of the valley - accessed by car or free ski bus - which has the most extensive skiing with the biggest vertical. Solda/Sulden http://www.seilbahnensulden.it/Englisch/index.php Ortler Ski Arena http://www.ortlerskiarena.com/en/skiing-in-italy.html It's also home to one of Rheinhold Mesner's museums dedicated to mountain life, sport & culture. Messner Mountain Museum Ortles http://www.messner-mountain-museum.it/en/ortles/museum/ Hotel Post Solda snapshot Ortler reflection We had dinner at Restaurant Nives and it was superb. Deep fried camembert and mushroom ravioli for Nerys, beef carpaccio (best I've had) and steak with rosemary potatoes for me. Add in mineral water, two glasses of prosecco, four glasses of wine, four grappas, and two coffees and it made for a fantastic evening (93.80 euros)
THURSDAY 31 MARCH 2016 Woke to clear skies and the sunrise warming the mountains but the weather moved in quickly and the mountains soon became shrouded in cloud. Solda Church Messner Mountain Museum After a great breakfast we drove to the Madritsch base area and took the Seilbahn Sekt. I & II, Madritsch and Schontauf II to the top of Solda at 3250m As we neared the top of the Seilbahn Sekt. II we broke through the cloud to a world of sunshine and spectacular peaks. Nerys at the top of Solda Gran Zebru Konigspitze (3859m), Zebru (3740m) and Ortler (3905m) Nerys and Gran Zebru Konigspitze (3859m) We spent most of the day lapping the Madritsch and Schontauf II chairs skiing dry, packed powder on piste and windblown pockets of powder on a firm base off-piste. Nerys Before and after lunch we skied down to the bottom of the Seilbahn Sekt. II cable car on the Madritsch variant (red 1A) passing under the face of Gran Zebru Konigspitze. For the last run of the day I skied the Hochstein black itinerary down to the bottom of the Seilbahn Sekt. II cable car and then Kanonenrohr (black 1C) to the car park, 1250m vertical. The perfect ending to a perfect holiday. Solda has got so much to offer. Above treeline skiing for those bluebird days and treelined runs and well spaced forests for when it's dumping. Here's a good example of what's possible And with 6 areas on a combined pass - Belpiano, Malga S. Valentino, Watles, Solda, Trafoi, Minschuns/Val Monastero (CH) - and Merano 2000, Val Senales and Nauders a short drive away the Val Venosta has much to offer. We had intended going to Hotel Post for dinner but after a few aperitifs in the Nives bar it was too easy to walk across the hallway to the restaurant. Another superb evening, and a boozy one! Salad and Rocket Tagliolini for Nerys, mushroom ravioli and Sportlerschnitzel with fries for me. Couldn't finish it, massive. Add in mineral water, one bombardino, one coretto, two veneziano, one Ingo, two glasses of prosecco, two glasses of wine, nine grappas, 2 cognacs and two coffees and we really pushed the boat out (118.70 euros) FRIDAY 01 APRIL 2016 A leisurely breakfast and a leisurely and uneventful drive to Innsbruck airport. A fabulous week and a wonderful counterpoint to our week in Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis. Costs 6-day car hire £141.53 Petrol £57.39 1-night Accommodation at Guesthouse 37 £99.32 2-nights Accommodation at Hotel Arena £143.00 1-night HB Accommodation at Hotel Zanella £74.85 2-nights B&B Accommodation at Basecamp Nives £138.59 Lift Pass £116.80 Food & drink £490.35 Total £1261.83 Per person £630.92 / 794.12 euros / US$ 895.28 / AUD$ 1160.00 for 6 nights (2 days skiing) To convert to your currency please use this link http://www.xe.com/
