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Discussion in 'Backcountry' started by Toddo, Nov 29, 2006.
Ronnie Johns says..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unkIVvjZc9Y
i can walk
but can't twist or rotate it much at all
inside a boot it prob would be fine, but i don't think it would be smart trying to learn how to ski on skis that aren't skis that your feet can't come out of
might try for a late october jaunt ... maybe
i'm not the one waiting for his missus permission to go to the snow this weekend
Caboose. not long now
i'm ordering stuff to split a board now. tossing up between splitting an old i already have (it's a bit heavy already though, splitting my pow board (that only gets used on holidays anyway, it's good for pow, but worried the bindings might be set back too far for normal use.) or buying a new stiff board to chop, or just forking out for a "real" splitty.
Decide between DIY or pre-split before ordering the Voile split kit, as it is different depending on whether you DIY or buy a pre-split board.
just waiting for another fall or two and i'll go test the puppy out
i hope she works well
if it is good i will prob buy a factory split in the near future
Can definitely recommend the Prior - I love it, especially in the powder. Even though it's shorter than my usual board (my split's a 157 and my normal powder board is a 159) it seems to float better and requires less back leg work. Ice is just survival - but face it - when do we really want to be out in the bc?
There are some really good deals on last year's splits on thebackcountry.net at the moment.
I went the Prior, standard freeride not Khyber. They do cop a bit of a beating in Aus though, I've had about 15 days on it but board looks like its had 50.
suz, were you the guy I chatted to at Mountain Creek last October, in Astra with skier? (Lets face it, not many people own a Prior split in Aus. I wasn't on split that day, just booted up for a day trip).
A few splitters now in Aus, good to see
don't know if that is that good a deal
i thought standard sale price was about $850US
yeah it's not that cheap, there was a couple of burtons with skins and hardware brand new for $700 on ebay.
I may be getting a super cheap lib tech travis rice 161 for the purpose of cutting into a split.... mmm magnetraction
A magne traction split! Awesome. How are you getting it cheap? I'm thinking of getting one for my normal riding htis year.
got a voile 158cm split off ebay last week, just delivered yesterday, bit concerned about the possible lack of float in new snow for the board though as its dimensions appear very similar to my rossi premier frestsyle board, any thoughts????
suz, didn't even think about linking together your post-name with gender, woops Obviously wasn't you then.
I think the tail is the first place for the glue to go off, mainly because it's the easiest part to grab for the seperation process. Mine still stick fine though.
My only thought fatnorm is float is no issue if your going fast enough. I'm not much of a believer in float and set-back stances. Speed is your friend and even in pow you have to de-weight your tail to turn so I like to stay reasonably centred. In ski mode - sure 158cm is a short ski, but splitboard ski's are very fat so I'd imagine float would be ok.
what are your thoughts on the magnetraction
do you reckon it is the new black or just hype?
I rode the TRS and the yellow banana one last year, but unfortunately not in ice so I couldn't really tell. The banana felt really weird -kind of cool in the park and quite springy. The TRS felt really solid but also relaly hooked into the turns. Lots of the guys I work with instructing moved onto the Magentraction last year and loved them.
i have only demo'd a couple, it take a bit of getting used to but like suz said, it really hooks into turns and stays on a rail.
well the t rice fell through, but i did manage to pick up a GNU riders choice 161.5 for $200 from sierrasnowboard.com .... due next week, so let the splitting begin
Sounds like a good deal. Good luck splitting it - don't go crooked...By the way - we jumped up 100 places on the waiting list for the bindings!!
nice i was about to check that! might get them sooner than we thought!
climbingskinsdirect.com has skins for $90 as well, cheaper than $150 for tractor skins.
Season slowing down over there, lease play more work for Will
Those skins look good - just make sure they are wide enough (realy annoying when skins are too narrow for the skis when you are heading up a steeper slope - or maybe it's just my bad technique) and make sure the clip will fit over the latch on the top of the board - otherwise this is easily broken. Would be good, I think, to have a clip on both tip and tail - just a bit more secure.
yeah they are plenty wide (132mm).
not sure that you need the tail clip, the voile ones don't come with it anyway do they?
They don't come with a tail clip, but I sometimes think it would be good. Every now and then my skins can boil up at the back adn start peeling off. Also sometimes if there's lots of pow around it is hard to put on the skins really well without getting snow and ice under them. A talk clip would help with this. But maybe it's overkill. Definitely not a real necessity. You'll have to let us know how the splitting goes.
you can by tail loop kits from Black Diamond. might be hard to get it to stay on the back of a split board though - they are designed to work on a straighter edge.
i emailed the guy from climbing skins direct and he recommended the ones with the ring at the back for a splitboard, only $10 extra....
are you in Sydney Toddo?
btw what method are you using for splitting
circular, jig, ban saw???
yep i'm in sydney. in the shire.
Haven't thought too much about it, but i was planing on grinding out the front and rear rail with an angle grinder, then setting up a template/jig to make sure it's straight and cuttng i with a circular saw. Am probably going to just use a normal blade, as the board i have has about a 4mm wider waist than what i normally ride anyway, so the cut will bring in it to a normal width for me.
let us know when ya going to do it
i wouldn't watching if you don't mind
my cut wasn't 100% straight and i reckon a jigsaw would have been better (with a jig/templete for straight line) - ie slower cut
the scoop was the hardest to cut due to the slope and flex of the board
i used a file to cut the tip
all my pics are here
to get it 100% straight i am planning on clamping two pieces of straight, flexible wood either side of the saw to work as a guide, so basically the saw won't be able to move in any direction other than straight down the line. the board will be upside down to make cutting the nose and tail easier.
yep i had the board upside down too, but only 1 rail to guide the saw
the problem i had was getting the cut started
as the tip slopes up you have no running guide until the board flatens out
i'm going to use flexible pieces for the guides and bend them down with the tip and tail. probly just use a couple of strips of 9-12mm MDF or something similar for the guides.
that was my practise board ^^
some guys overseas don't bother cutting the edge before sawing
mine blew out a little even after cutting
btw you are welcome to my tools - couter sink drill bits and saw (i bought a fine tooth blade etc)
seriously it is over kill though, like cutting through balsa wood
fair enough, good idea
the saw guard was a bugger too, kept getting caught
So glad I bought an already split board. All sounds way too complicated for me Good luck with it!
Do you have to seal your split edge?
Do you do anything to the spit edge after cutting?
yes you have to seal the edge - as the board would delaminate and the wood core would get stuffed
general rule is apoxy the hell out of it
Here is a product that can be used as a downhill ski or an uphill walker with skins, comes complete with everything.
Also this one here that most people canned the crap out of but may help,
Binding flip around to join the board and flip back to a more conventional style when used as blades etc. Both products will be up at Charlottes Pass SIC weekend for anyone who would like to try them out.
no offence snow stuff, but don't think i'd like to tackle any decent backcountry lines on that thing.
Caboose... when you put your pucks on did you use the woods screws povided or t nuts? i am reading that the wood screws have a tendancy to pull out and eject the rider!
i used the woodscrews, will see how they go, they seem pretty solid, if they pull out i can all was drill it out an use the t-bolt thingies
i'm not that aggressive with my riding, not expecting to be hucking 30fters on this thing
let me know when ya going to cut if you need some moral support
my board arrived today, but i wasn;t home, so hopefully they will leave it here tomorrow if i leave a note for them... so cutting comes soon.
i am hoping to do some hucking on it, so i might try and track down some t nuts
If you are ordering your split kit from Voile you could get the t nuts at the same time.They are listed in the splitboard spare part section of the site.
yeah i missed that boat ian...
i will be able to get some no worries from the local fastener specialty store no worries though.
i have "glued" the wood screws in place
i don't think thwy will be coming out too soon
yeah they should be ok, i've just read it's better to use the t nuts, so might as well do it first time.
yeah i have to dig out one of the T-nuts from the touring setup as went crooked as i tightened it and sticks out past the level of the base a wee bit