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The Surf Thread

Discussion in 'Weather' started by Belly, Jun 1, 2017.

  1. Belly

    Belly A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    3pm approx. It is a spot that's cross offshore in a southerly.
     
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  2. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    Rather better this morning at the NBSS. Not as big as I had hoped but nice amounts of energy in it - I heard after I finished that one of my friends had managed to snap his board a bit up the beach from where I was surfing, combination of the bottom of the tide and a fair bit of power even though not great wave height can do that! Anyway my friend and I had it to ourselves for about 40 minutes then the Surfing Mums (who surf either Avalon or the NBSS) turned up in force for a Mothers Day early session. It was still ok though crowd-wise and they are fun and nice to surf with.

    If the swell holds together it might be better at the NBSS this afternoon on a biggish tide. Crosswaves looked good around the low tide though, but with around 20 in the water it would likely have been fairly competitive.
     
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  3. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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    Just got back after doing a drive by at Sandon. Met Clarrie Bouma who was just packing up after snapping off over 2,000 pics this morning!

    @W0nkey D0nkey Clarrie mentioned that Virgins was good early this morning with a good 30 on it.

    Sandon was decent, some good overhead sets but fairly fat ish. Still some nice long and clean walls and a few rippers getting into it. A few out Peggy’s also getting some fat ish larger lefts. Sandon side was still clean even at 11am.

    Absolute cracker of a day here in the Gong!
     
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  4. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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  5. Belly

    Belly A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    I had one of my more memorable surfs this morning. No photos, same spot as yesterday. When you're left out at the top of the point on your own and the lads are hooting from the cliff for a decent set and you surf the wave reasonably well it's a nice feeling.
    I picked up a knubster at the Wetspot closing sale and it went well. Also I'm definitely a chesty convert, very happy with my Ion Amp 3/2 short sleeve steamer.

    Swell is hanging in there on the south coast, this was taken at approx 1pm on an open beach.
     
  6. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    I had an afternoon bonus surf at the Northern Beaches Secret Spot around the high tide. Wasn’t nearly as good as I’d hoped it might be; generally pretty straight and hitting shallow banks quite hard.

    One of my friends had just walked a lap of the beach when I got there (and was about to go home without getting her board out - she and I did have a pretty ok surf this morning though). She said the whole beach was pretty much the same, so I just went out in front of the coffee shop; it didn’t seem any worse than anywhere else, and there was just one lady and me having to share it.

    As much as anything I wanted to try out the RipCurl GPS watch I bought myself this morning. Its position tracking seems pretty accurate (much more so than the surf tracking app I have been using on my Apple Watch since my Trace tracker failed a couple of years ago - which has a habit of including all sorts of random movements and mis-tracking during a session), but it struggled to identify all the short takeoff-turn-pull-in-get-smashed waves as being caught “waves” rather than just “movement”.

    Here’s how it tracked my 50 minute or so session anyway (with the paddling - which is all movement other than what its algorithm thinks is riding a wave - shown):

     
  7. W0nkey D0nkey

    W0nkey D0nkey One of Us Ski Pass: Silver

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    I checked virg at sunrise and already multiple jetskis out there, didn't bother paddling out.
    Looked alright though
     
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  8. Donzah

    Donzah Old n' Crusty Ski Pass: Gold

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    We kept it secret for so long.........
     
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  9. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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    It was only a matter of time, nothing seems to be secret these days. social media and the internet have exposed / killed a lot of secret spots.

    Couple of videos came out featuring V a few years back, especially the one with Fanning and co scoring it. Can’t find the Fanning vid anymore but found this one of Laurie Towner:

     
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  10. Belly

    Belly A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    So when I had one of my rare camps a couple of months back old mate and his cattle dog from Narrabeen set-up next to me and my lab. Fast forward 2 months and old mate is out there this morning at my fickle point which I've been scouting for the last four plus years since my in-laws settled on the south coast. Back when I was camping 'full time' I didn't really scout said point much as I basically lived at other nearby breaks. Old mate joked how he told his Narrabeen surf mates that he goes north all those weekends he goes south. Point being, you need to put the time in on the south and it will reward. I basically stroked into any wave I wanted yesterday and today. But it can be a pretty cruel place as well and for months you may have to live on a turn (or two) per wave to get by.
     
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  11. Donzah

    Donzah Old n' Crusty Ski Pass: Gold

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    I first surfed it 11th april 1991...last surf out there would have been 1996..
    Johnny Whalan. Local bellambi booger told us about it.
    I remember Robbie page took Cheyne Horan out there at 6-8 foot (which was unheard of). ..His GF at the time was a Brazilian bodyboarder.
    Anyways... He called it as heavy as Backdoor size for size.

    Ray Collins (who is a good mate) pretty much blew the place up. That, coupled with skis and surfers willing to take on heavier slabs pretty much killed it.
     
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  12. PiniPowPow

    PiniPowPow One of Us Ski Pass: Silver

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    Epic morning drove south and got great waves at some nooks and crannies. Not sharing any photos haha!
     
  13. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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    The word 'fickle' comes to mind! Having someone in the know like @nfip with the strong local knowledge of the area would help immensely, as I found on my quick trip down last month. It was the first time I'd been south in a long time and I honestly had NFI where to go to find waves given the conditions we had at the time. One thing is for sure, you need:
    A - Car
    B - Time
    C - No kids!
     
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  14. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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    Obligatory fill up at Hayden's included?!
     
  15. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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    Bali or Shippies this morning? hmmm :D
     
  16. W0nkey D0nkey

    W0nkey D0nkey One of Us Ski Pass: Silver

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    If I could, i’d be watching cape fear.
     
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  17. PiniPowPow

    PiniPowPow One of Us Ski Pass: Silver

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    yes, and oporto south nowra on the way home!
     
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  18. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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    Been watching Shippies, so far pretty good but I thought it would be bigger.....they are saying it's supposed to get bigger during the day
     
  19. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    Same; shame Mick was beaten in the first heat.
     
  20. Belly

    Belly A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    Surf swim in wetsuit top, shark sightings, home time :( :)
     
  21. Fozzie Bear

    Fozzie Bear One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    RB makes it look too easy and doesn't go through?
     
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  22. SAsurfa

    SAsurfa One of Us

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    RB slayed it!
     
  23. PiniPowPow

    PiniPowPow One of Us Ski Pass: Silver

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    yikes! so many around. Heard someone got bumped at Bendalong last week
     
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  24. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    missed the heat with Russ.
    sure there will be a highlight or replay later.
    back in time for the final now.
    Go Laurie !
     
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  25. Belly

    Belly A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    Yeah there's lots of activity down here atm. Yesterday morning during my surf there was talk of a bull shark sighting. In the arvo during family play we saw a school of baitfish that turned parts of the breaking wave almost black. This morning during family play we saw what looked like some bigger fish on the attack. And then when I went for a micro paddle a fisherman told me he'd seen a 3m shark in a nearby estuary, like 100m away. And then when I paddled out the 3 surfers said there is a smaller shark swimming around underneath us, they thought it was a grey nurse. I didn't see it though.
     
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  26. W0nkey D0nkey

    W0nkey D0nkey One of Us Ski Pass: Silver

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    Water got cleared twice at the werri slash the other week.
    One grom got brushed
     
  27. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    We haven't actually seen any men in grey suits at the Northern Beaches Secret Spot recently (other than the school of hammerheads a couple of weeks ago, which were reported one day I wasn't surfing) but:

    * There are a LOT of fish around. Our beginner and I were pretty-much playing "dodge the mullet" in the shore break a few days ago. They were sitting in the deeper channel inside of the bank we were on.
    * Seen lots of birds swooping, plenty of small to 1'-ish fish jumping, etc.
    * I was speaking with a random fisher at the coffee shop a couple of days ago who had been fishing up at the 'Joey, and said there were heaps of mullet and Australian Salmon. Also a couple of seals hauled up on the rocks at the 'Joey having stuffed themselves full of fish.

    Any wonder we are having a few large marine animals around!
     
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  28. Mister Tee on XC Skis

    Mister Tee on XC Skis One of Us Ski Pass: Silver

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    Good surfing at Point Leo today. Photos are coming soon. It is always encouraging to see people on boards who are worse at surfing than I am ;-P .
    Be it using their knees to pop up in a rather uncoordinated manner , incorrect paddling technique which looks as bad as it is ineffectual, paddling for wave in the non take off zone and so on: I think I can only improve when I see these things being done by others.
     
    #5878 Mister Tee on XC Skis, May 13, 2019
    Last edited: May 15, 2019
  29. Mister Tee on XC Skis

    Mister Tee on XC Skis One of Us Ski Pass: Silver

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    At Point Leo today there was an OFF SHORE BREEZE, a SW swell and the tide had started to come in. The sets of waves were often quite a period apart so bobbing up and down like a tea bag with the 5 or so others near the take off zone was the Modus Operandi for the day. There were other board riders at Crunchy point but I seem to favour the second reef. I was wearing booties and a hood in addition to a 3/2 steamer wet suit . If you were not paddling or turtle flipping /duck diving then you could get a bit cold just waiting for the next set of waves . The waves had a nice shape to them , clean surf backed by some swell.
     
  30. Mister Tee on XC Skis

    Mister Tee on XC Skis One of Us Ski Pass: Silver

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    May 13th 2019. Point Leo , Westernport, VIC. The surf doesn't look very big from a distance in these photos but was big enough to power my body weight ( 93kgs) and my Long board .The wave size and quality were an ideal size for someone of my limited ability. I seem to be able to pop up on the first wave I latch onto but that is as good as I get as fatigue begins to set in.
    My balance even with bent knees and eyes up and head up is not great. The water is a more tricky surface than snow is for balancing upon. My pop up is quite improving especially by doing sets of pop ups at home and on the sand before I surf. Thus my muscle memory is setting in.
    http://www.surf-forecast.com/breaks/Point-Leo/forecasts/latest
    Tomorrow should also be similar and well worth a paddle at Point Leo esp. between 10 am and 1 pm.
     
    #5880 Mister Tee on XC Skis, May 13, 2019
    Last edited: May 13, 2019
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  31. Belly

    Belly A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    @SAsurfa the Weds-to-weekend+ southern ocean low is still there but looks to really strengthen later in the Tasman swell window and is now looking like a pretty serious Tahiti swell - thoughts?
     
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  32. smackies

    smackies A Local

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    Fun surf at Tea Tree this morning.

    The 30+ people out there are 6am thought so too. :rolleyes:
     
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  33. Donzah

    Donzah Old n' Crusty Ski Pass: Gold

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    woonona had a fun looking almond wedge into some left slides... Baby barrels with rooster tails.
    Only a foot and a half... crouchy tubes
     
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  34. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    The Northern Beaches Secret Spot was small and really not working anywhere. One of my friends had run a lap of the beach early, which also served as a surf check, and she said nothing up the beach was even close to rideable. So I surfed with her and my main surfing friend at Kiddies’ Corner for a bit over an hour but it was a total grovel for me (with less than 30l of foam) and close to zero wave power so I could only prone out on a few of them and barely keep my board planing on my feet on the others. Very pleasant morning though.

    I went for a bit of a look elsewhere after coffee in case I could pick up a bonus surf that was less of a pathetic grovel. Newport Peak looked to be 1-2’ and quite ok but with a dozen or so on it. There might even have been a wave at Crosswaves. Nothing else as far down as Warriewood looked any good at all. A dozen or so out at Mona Vale in front of the SLSC didn’t seem to be getting much other than 2’ closeouts with churning sand.

    Will give it another go tomorrow morning anyway :)
     
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  35. PiedPiper

    PiedPiper One of Us

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    I often find that i usually get 2,3 or 4 waves in the first 30-45 mins of a surf, and then even if i'm in the water anouther 2-3 horus, i'll still only rack up another 3-4 waves.
    Especially in cold water, surfing makes you tired super quick.
     
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  36. Zimbooo

    Zimbooo One of Us

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    No surfing for me..........man flu. :(
    Wifey was in Melbourne with daughter over the long weekend and brought it home with her. :(
    Still ......... at least half of that 30+ crowd would be shoulder sitters. LOL
     
  37. smackies

    smackies A Local

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    I just recovered from man flu, or more accurately baby flu. Little germ sponges.

    A lot of the crowd was the grom surf training.
     
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  38. Zimbooo

    Zimbooo One of Us

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    Dean Brady "Pro Movement" has signed up loads and loads of groms from the massive increase in Noosa Boardrider jnr numbers.
    Cash for Crowds. :(
    Should have taken them down towards Coolum for wind protection...........that's what the older coaches would have done to keep crowds down on the points.
     
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  39. smackies

    smackies A Local

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    Yup. His group was there. But also the enthusiastic parents out there pushing their spawn onto waves.
     
  40. Mister Tee on XC Skis

    Mister Tee on XC Skis One of Us Ski Pass: Silver

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    I am keen to get out there esp. at Westernport so bring on the swell and the good winds.
     
  41. smackies

    smackies A Local

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    Another fun morning at Tea Tree. A tad smaller, fewer people.

    1 dolphin.
     
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  42. parkmonkey

    parkmonkey Old n' Crusty Ski Pass: Gold

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    Well there's a first for everything and just exiting the water after being 10m away from at least a 4m very ominous dark submarine looking thing was it today :eek::out:
     
  43. smackies

    smackies A Local

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  44. Donzah

    Donzah Old n' Crusty Ski Pass: Gold

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    eeek.
    Not cool.
     
  45. Zimbooo

    Zimbooo One of Us

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    Where parkmonkey?
     
  46. The Plowking

    The Plowking Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    Fark that
     
  47. parkmonkey

    parkmonkey Old n' Crusty Ski Pass: Gold

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    Suffolk Park, surfing next to a spanish guy who reckoned he'd seen a fin a bit further out, i though yeah dolphin whatever about 30sec later farrrkkkkk. Was chatting with a couple other guys who had come in from further up the beach who'd seen something big a little further out to sea thought it might have been a baby whale, no baby whales around this time of year and the fin sightings also suggest not a whale
     
  48. parkmonkey

    parkmonkey Old n' Crusty Ski Pass: Gold

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    I didn't stop to look to long, was a nice little right hander pop right up in front of me and i was straight on to it and in on the knee deep sandbank trying to let the pack of guys up beach know what was going on, didn't feel great surfing along looking back at the spanish guy paddling in to the sandbank too
     
  49. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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    Yikes, sounds like a close encounter! Glad you got out safely mate!
     
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  50. Zimbooo

    Zimbooo One of Us

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    Would have been ironic for the Spanish dude if it was a 4m "bull" shark. LOL
    Glad your OK parkmonkey.....freaky!