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The Surf Thread

Discussion in 'Weather' started by Belly, Jun 1, 2017.

  1. SAsurfa

    SAsurfa One of Us

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    Yeah super fun, I timed it a little late, was sick for 20min then changing tide saw flash rips ruining the lineup. I had plenty of sick waves yesterday anyway over both sand and reef :)
     
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  2. Nozawaman

    Nozawaman A Local

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    Hahaha kids will keep you poor also.
     
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  3. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    I always knew it as Janey's also - I reckon though after the sewer outfall was put there (not sure if it still is or if the treatment has improved) it may have got a lot sharkier. I have seen a few at Boomerang and always been super-wary there. When I used to surf there regularly there was never anyone out (that was before all the development) but now it has been a total zoo whenever I have driven past for a look - mostly when I am on my way to or from Port.

    Back in the day (teenager - sigh) we used to be totally mad - surfing at night on the full moon when there were cyclone swells at Forster main beach, spear fishing off Bennett's Head and dragging the fish around behind us in little mesh bags - so I am a bit surprised I wasn't eaten.
     
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  4. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    Thx for the reminder mate :cry:
     
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  5. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    My twins (on a pupil-free day) and I had a surf from about 11am at the Northern Beaches Secret Spot and it was unrideable rubbish - straight, slamming, sandy closeouts with added bump and backwash - for most of the beach but weak, mushy but kind of clean waves down almost at Kiddies' Corner so we had an hour or so there.

    I got 23 waves on my usual 5'11 (but would have done better on a groveller) and they would have got about the same number on their lids. I bought them lunch afterwards (always a winner with 17 year olds) and the one who hasn't finished his hours on his Learners yet drove us down and back so overall it was a more-than-ok outing.

    Here is how it looked just up from the bank we surfed (photo from after our session):

     
  6. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    Northern Beaches Secret Spot is just plain bad this morning. Still paddling out with the usual weekend early crew though...

     
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  7. Belly

    Belly A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    Winds offshore at Moruya airport, but won't be in water til 3'ish
     
  8. Drewboy

    Drewboy One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    Same down our end of town,onshore crap,decided to go whale watching instead.
     
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  9. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    Looked alright this morning. Winds off shore and prolly 3 feet.
    Waves would be there if you have a look.
    Town not so busy but few crew around.
     
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  10. Belly

    Belly A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    Yep, nice and clean down south. Got a few corners.
     
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  11. Belly

    Belly A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    Interesting session this morning, nice 2ft / 1.5m faces still down south from mix of swells. Surfed the now 'local' beachie rivermouth combo. Upon check there was a massive mullet bait ball, had the 2 SUP'ers frazzled when I got out. Preceded to get my first, sloppy take-off feet too close together, rode out to the should and then required 10+ duckdive's to get back out. I was shattered with limited surf fitness. Another 6 or so mediocre take-offs / shouldery waves including another complete wash through. Determined, went out the back, got a set wave right with a perfect running wall and then nailed the prone transition to get to the beach in one go (not the easiest at this spot), vindication!! Family logistics mean last session, oh well til next time ;)
     
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  12. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    I surfed the south end of Palm Beach again this morning with some friends. When we got there (6:45) the north end didn't look any good - tide and wind were wrong - but during our session we saw the numbers building up there in the car park and then in the water. I drove up for a look after our apres-surf coffee and cake and it was a bit bumpy but otherwise pretty good - definitely very much better than anything we rode at the south end. Definitely the change in wind and nearly high tide did a lot of good for the north end.

    I got 28 waves at the south end but they were all short, straight and bumpy and a strong cross-current running so a fair bit of paddling practice. A school of dolphins did drop by for a while too, which added a highlight to our session.
     
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  13. Annabuzzy

    Annabuzzy Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    First contribution for a while...

    2 foot with maybe 3 foot sets today at Bondi. Pretty clean and the swell had cleaned up from yesterday. Surfed a nice uncrowded left until half the beach came to join us. I got a few nice ones but after a boozy dinner last night was a bit slower to my feet than I'd like, even considering I'm 50+. Then when the crowd hit I paddled over to a rip bowl right, which had 2 others on it. I was pretty buggered by then but got a half decent one to finish on.

    I'm not sure how many waves I got. I'm impressed you count them Ted.

    Also ordered a new 7'4" x 22.5" x 27/8"board today for micro conditions, after having picked up an eBay special the day before (6'6" x 21.25" x 2 7/8"). I've basically given up getting back on the boards I surfed up until a couple of years ago. I've acknowledged at50+ I can use a bit more foam, length and width, and as the years pass I'll probably need to go up in size a touch every few years.
     
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  14. Nozawaman

    Nozawaman A Local

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    I recently turned 60 , and just bought a 5'8" .
     
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  15. Annabuzzy

    Annabuzzy Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    I don't think I've ever surfed a 5'8"!!!
     
  16. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    I have a GPS tracker gadget with a mount on each of my boards that my wife bought me for Christmas 18 months ago. See http://www.traceup.com/trace-for-surfing

    It provides stats like this (for the session this morning - in the app it has a lot more detail than this shareable web page (and also has leaderboards and so on) https://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=557376&vId=86193

    I am very nearly 53 and my main go-to board is a Channel Islands "Fred Stubble" 5'11" x 19 3/4 x 2 9/16 (31.3 litres). I like short-ish boards with sharp-ish rails that I can throw around. A bit more foam up the front would make paddling into mushy waves easier but I like the way this board rides once it gets going.
     
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  17. Annabuzzy

    Annabuzzy Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    How heavy are you two?
     
  18. Belly

    Belly A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    I know I'm not in the recent chat but FWIW... I'm 41 6'2" and probably now mid 90's with my 16mo boy fitness. I find my 37l 6'2" fish is increasingly becoming my go to. Both my 6'4" DP Sequel and 5'10" Hypto are circa 34l but both require more unique conditions, basically size and cleanness respectively. I'm only intermediate skill level but water experienced thanks to my surf-lid-surf background since 8yo but all weekend warrior since 18+. Whilst I appreciate the extra volume of my fish I hope to only ride boards similar to Ted and NM as I find bigger boards a greater physical impose given a pretty dodgy back.
     
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  19. Annabuzzy

    Annabuzzy Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    That's pretty similar to what I've been surfing. From 45-50 I tended to be on 6'4" boards around 37 litres (around 90kg). But I've got older, weightier (guessing 93-94 kg) and less fit and I've upped the litres for the shortboard to over 40 litres. Aside from a longboard and the now ordered 7'4" all boards between 6'4" and 6'7".
     
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  20. Nozawaman

    Nozawaman A Local

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    80kgs
     
  21. Annabuzzy

    Annabuzzy Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    Geez you like a lot less volume in your boards than I do!!!

    I grew up surfing the late 70's and early 80's. I absolutely hated the Slater inspired, wafer thin, pencil boards of the 90's. I think I've always liked a touch more volume for my weight than the norm.
     
  22. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    I'm about 74kg. Been surfing since about 1970 and always ridden relatively short, relatively loose boards.
     
  23. Nozawaman

    Nozawaman A Local

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    The board I just bought was an Evo at 35.7 litres , I also have a 6'3" DHD Sweet Spot at 33 litres , and a DHD Black Diamond 6' at 33 litres .
    I find they paddle well especially if there is a bit of water moving .
     
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  24. Annabuzzy

    Annabuzzy Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    They're probably around what I'd surf at 80kg, at least in years past
     
  25. SAsurfa

    SAsurfa One of Us

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    Sick waves all weekend somewhere on the East Coast.. Was most crowded I have even seen it Sunday morning but all gone by late morning ;)

     
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  26. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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    Finally had a decent session yesterday (Monday) although fark me it was crowded

    Still very nice, clean 2ft+ and some nice shapely little banks with a good mix of lefts and rights on offer

    @SAsurfa did you go North or South to score? ;)
     
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  27. SAsurfa

    SAsurfa One of Us

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    South :)
     
  28. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    Crowded (very - at the Northern Beaches Secret Spot) yesterday morning. Quite a lot of randoms in the water and a lot more drop-ins than you would like (and more than a little correlation between these!).

    I surfed with my son and my friend's son (on their lids) plus a few of the regulars out from North Palmy car park. Somewhere around 20 people on one shifting peak from about 7am onwards, which is super-busy for an early session there any time of year and nuts for winter.

    Sets were 3'+ and it was pretty good - I managed 19 waves, some of which were really good, and avoided any biffo or board collisions until I gave it away due to the continual drop-ins (and I mean blatant ones when you were up and riding and running down the line, not just paddle battles). The others in our usual group were psyched out by the crowds and surfed down near Kiddies' and it was tiny and hopeless.
     
  29. Belly

    Belly A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    Looks like Ulladulla way, that's ok you don't have to comment :)
     
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  30. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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    Got a fair idea where it is based on that direction but won't mention any names ;)
     
  31. SAsurfa

    SAsurfa One of Us

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    Not Bendy :p ha
     
  32. Belly

    Belly A Local Ski Pass: Gold

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    If it's where I think it is 'found' it on google maps circa 12 myself, far from secret just takes a bit of work...
     
  33. Drewboy

    Drewboy One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    Gave the weekend the miss.Some good waves this morning before the dreaded southerly came up again.These shots were taken just after the wind hit
     
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  34. Nozawaman

    Nozawaman A Local

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    Finally got the Evo in the water this morning ( I have actually been working hahaha ) .
    2-3' soft clean waves . First impression was wow so easy to paddle and catch waves , and after surfing a rounded pin I found you can't jam hard cutbacks with it you need to coax it a little to come around , but I guess that was to be expected with such a wide tail .The other thing I noticed is that it wanted to get into the pocket seemingly by itself , maybe that has something to do with the channels running along the bottom ? I think I will put some medium fins in it next time ( I used large today ) . Also for 5'8" it never felt too small under me .
    Overall for the first surf I was stoked , and can't wait to get it into a little more juice/size .
     
  35. Annabuzzy

    Annabuzzy Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    I surfed my normal short board today but should have pulled out my small wave board - as above pretty soft waves. Still, nice to have a paddle.
     
  36. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    Surfed at North Palm Beach with the usual Saturday early crew plus a couple of carloads of folks from elsewhere. Generally poor conditions - one of the guys described it as two swells getting in each other's way - not enough water over the banks, so mostly closing out and shutting down pretty hard with some backwash thrown in too. High point was a pod of dolphins surfing around and under us for a while.

    Nobody in my usual group gave it more than 30-40 minutes - I got 10 pretty forgettable waves in 40 minutes before giving it away for coffee then kids' soccer. After I got out I had a chat to a lady who surfs either Palm or Av. She drove up in her wetty after 1/2 a session at Av which she said was sort of ok but crowded and she was hoping to have a bit more at the Northern Beaches Secret Spot but the fact that all of the usual suspects for the weekend earlies had already got out of the water by 8am helped her decide not to bother with the second half session.

    Here's how it looked after our session:



    Fingers crossed for tomorrow morning's early.
     
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  37. POW_hungry

    POW_hungry Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    I solemnly try not to be a pessimist when it comes to surfing conditions, but I have to say today was probably the worst surf I've had in months (Bondi). Lackluster, puffing on-shore, over-crowded grovel is the best best way I can describe it. It sucked. Ended up ditching the board and body bashing for halfa....
     
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  38. Nozawaman

    Nozawaman A Local

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    Swell is predicted for tomorrow around mid north coast ????
     
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  39. Drewboy

    Drewboy One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    Thanks for the review.Fins can make or break a board.Years ago I remember getting a board and trying it with standard plastics and thought what a pig of a board,then tried some carbon KS fins and became one of my all time favourites.
     
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  40. Drewboy

    Drewboy One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    Hopefully the wind cooperates
     
  41. Drewboy

    Drewboy One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    The southerlies just keep on keeping on.Looking like they are with us for a few more days
     
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  42. Nozawaman

    Nozawaman A Local

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    Definitely ....... my son bought a Hypto Krypto , and I was watching him not getting much drive from his bottom turns , and suggested he try some large fins . It was like magic he started to draw nice bottom turns ,and linking snappy reo's off the top .
     
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  43. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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    What are those Hypto Krypto's like? See so many of them and I have heard good things about them. Not cheap though.

    Had an uneventful Saturday morning session at my home stretch just north of the SLSC (DY).

    Pretty much sums up @Ted Harper comments about the 2 swells getting confused with each other. The dominant swell train was the longer period S swell but as the tide was too low, it was just heaving onto the sand in typical S swell Northern Beaches fashion. I was lucky enough to get a couple of fun ones just as I had got into the water and managed a couple of turns but after that it was pretty much straight handers. I reckon it would have been better around mid - high tide. Around 2ft+ on the sets with plenty of power.

    Looks like we are back to weak 1-2ft E swell this morning and no more S ground swell
     
  44. Annabuzzy

    Annabuzzy Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    Sitting at Bondi trying to motivate myself to go surfing
     
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  45. Annabuzzy

    Annabuzzy Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    I've never surfed a Hypto Krypto but I think it is the highest selling Surfboard model in the world. I have a FireWire Dominator on rotation - the Hypto Krypto looks related, but for front foot oriented surfers more than backfoot ones, and a bigger wave range because of its pinnier tail
     
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  46. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    You know you want to... I surfed this morning with the usual suspects (no randoms joined us today at the Northern Beaches Secret Spot). Wind was surprisingly strong and side-shore and the tide was way too low. Overall a better session than yesterday - waves were maybe worse but without the larger clean-up sets and without the randoms dropping-in we alll had more fun than yesterday. Still pretty ordinary conditions though I have to admit. My son and my friend's son on their doormats did the best in the conditions and have decided that bodyboarders are the Master Race and that the rest of us on our short boards should "evolve" to their level (sigh): 17 year olds - what do you do with them...

    I am in the city now and the wind seems to have picked up a lot so maybe getting in the water now might be a stretch too far even for me - glad I got my session in early :)
     
  47. Annabuzzy

    Annabuzzy Part of the Furniture Ski Pass: Gold

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    Oh I did, and it was absolutely sh%#. The front zip on my wetsuit snapped off too, which is the second zip repair on a 4 or 5 year old wetsuit. The gods have spoken
     
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  48. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 A Local

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    I fear it will start getting worse for our NB area as we plunge deeper into the winter months @Ted Harper and the S swells become the dominant swell train.

    Autumn was nice, not all time for my stretch but certainly some great weather and a few classic days in the mix :)
     
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  49. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    Last year I bought a zip-free steamer to avoid those problems, and less chance of getting flushed when duck-diving, and one of my friends did too. They are absolutely great to surf in but neither she nor I can always get out of them unassisted - especially after long sessions or when we're really cold - so in winter we make sure we both get out of the water at the same time...

    I had a seam on my other steamer (chest-zip, only a couple of years old) fail last winter and Rip Curl were good with the repair - of course the 2-3 weeks it took to come back meant I bought the zip-free one in the meantime so they made an extra sale but the repair was well done and no hassle. I dropped it off at Damian Hardman's store at North Narrabeen and it went away and came back fixed.
     
    #99 Ted Harper, Jun 18, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2017
  50. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper One of Us Ski Pass: Gold

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    I would be happy with a BIG south swell. We normally do ok between Kiddies' Corner and the coffee shop in winter once the south swells get going and at the moment there is a reasonable amount of sand there so I am hopeful with some energy from the right direction it should work ok.

    BTW I am sure the next couple of days will have good waves at Palm Beach if only because I am going skiing tomorrow morning for a couple of days. Seems that @Normo has Perisher to himself and the chairs need some balancing AND I'm a bit dispirited how bad the waves have been lately.
     
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