The Surf Thread

Steezey_Wonder

Hard Yards
Jan 11, 2013
42
15
58
Where are you located? What type of waves? My young bloke has been riding Stueys shapes for many years now from his later Water Pistol dayz to now Campbell designs. The young bloke has his head around all the shortboard models now in Exo Flex from quad fish, to the fatter shortboard, standard performance shortboard, and step up. if you have any questions, fire them away and I'll get him to chime in.
If not no drama, I'm sure Stuey would ask you all the questions, to make the board that best suits you and what you want.
I’m at Cronulla and mainly surf the beaches which are pretty average most of the time. Looking for a daily driver and Stuey has recommended this https://www.campbelldesigned.com/products/the-toe-exo?variant=31584564346993
Dropping $1k without sighting the board is proving to be a hurdle at the moment.
Also looking at Spinetek OG Flyer and Pyzalien 2.
I’ve got Phantom and it’s on my upper litre range these days and feels tight until the waves start to turn on. I’m thinking it’s a combination of too much volume, stiff fins (Pyzel FCS 11) and it being centre forward.
Any feedback/thoughts is welcomed.
Too many options....
 

parkmonkey

Old n' Crusty
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May 20, 2005
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On a wave or mountain face near you.
Flynns looks OK, Express is the best wave on the island (when it works). Was watching a few YT vids of it recently actually
I surfed it every opportunity i got the summer/autum i was down there
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7958F4C7-C07F-4E34-898E-2BF5AA64649B.jpeg
 
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Mister Tee on XC Skis

Not your average unconventional eccentric.
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Melbourne, Lockdown-i-stan .
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Zimbooo

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Nov 20, 2017
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When I was a kid (early high school days), I had one great surfing buddy, others were just hangers-on. We talked about our next session every day and skated every day in between if we couldn't surf. Due to our age, we relied on our mums and dads giving us a lift to the beach and return as we didn't live close enough to walk etc. Our parents would take turns dropping us off and then collecting us some hours later. It was either a Long Reef carpark or Dee Why carpark drop off and collect. My mate "Noz", lost his mum at an early age (I never knew how), so his dad brought him up along with his brother as a single dad. Money wasn't available in buckets for either of us but Noz definitely had less on tap than myself. Over our first 2 winters surfing together on Sydneys Nthn beaches, Noz went from going blue in boardies and a long arm vest, to him using my hand me down long arm springy as I was lucky enough to be upgraded to a short arm steamer (some days I wished I still had the long arms ha ha). Often in winter after surfing, we used to hang out in the laundromat as it was a great place to thaw out due to the dryers (old school sauna). If we were lucky and were given some coin, it was Chiko Roll and chips for a after surf scoff as well. Jeez, it was fun and free. Share.........................
 

Bendalong+

One of Us
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Jan 30, 2014
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Due to location, growing up in Sydney's northern suburbs, surfing opportunities as a kid were limited to yearly family caravan school holidays to Noosa in the 70's. In two weeks I would pick up the pieces from the previous year and by the end of the holiday I thought I was a 'bronzed Aussie'(even had an Ian Cairns inspired 'tube shooter' 6'7"). Had some great times at Sunrise-Sunshine beach and the occasional NP. When home in Sydney sailing-dinghy racing took up most of the spare time as the family sport.
Surfing didn't really happen until mobility came with a license and car.
Mid 80's lived with a Mate and his brother and was inducted into NSW south coast winter weekends-leave Friday after work-stock up on fresh nuts and dried fruit at a Lebanese shop in Granville on the way-camp at Jervis Bay, Ulla, Benders, Manyana, Green Island, Potatoe Point, Dalmeny and a hundred others. Get home late Sunday, work the week and do it again. Probably 30 odd trips over a couple of years. The third older brother (mid north coast) shaped some nice boards for us. He passed away a few years ago and I was recently able to give back to my mate one of his older brother's last shaped boards(still in good nick) as a ...gesture/appreciation of some memorable times.
 

Nozawaman

A Local
Nov 7, 2002
6,649
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Gold Coast/Nozawa Onsen
www.sasa-nozawa.com
I lived inner city Sydney , Balmain and I was always running around the harbour fishing for leather jackets off the end of the wharfs , or swimming in the harbour , so I guess my affinity with water started there .
Me and a few mates started catching the bus to Bronte and we would meet up with a bunch of other strays and hang in the cave/under the rocks and ride Coolites all day . We went from lying prone to standing up on them , probably to get some relief from the killer rash they used to give you . From then on I was hooked .
We graduated from Bronte to to Bondi, and my first board was a Midget Farrelly pop out I bought from Grace Bros at Broadway . I used to work for a bookie at the dogs on a Saturday night , getting them drinks and sandwiches , and the price updates from the paddock while they worked they, knew I loved the beach as I used to turn up burnt to a crisp , anyway he had a big win the meeting before xmas day and he gave the money to buy that first board I think it was about a $100 .
We used to surf in football jumpers and camp in the tunnels at Bondi where the clubbies kept their gear , and hope that they dried a little before we put them back on for another surf , after a pie from The Flying Pieman .
We started to get a bit adventurous and began catching the ferry to Manly and hanging at the Green Shed , sometimes walking around to the Bower , and taking off next to the surge and wanting desperately to one day be able to paddle a bit further to Winki . I always wanted to be able to surf as good as Twizel who ruled Manly at the time .
As Bendalong said once I became mobile......... well I could write a book .
 

Nozawaman

A Local
Nov 7, 2002
6,649
2,943
563
Gold Coast/Nozawa Onsen
www.sasa-nozawa.com
When I was a kid (early high school days), I had one great surfing buddy, others were just hangers-on. We talked about our next session every day and skated every day in between if we couldn't surf. Due to our age, we relied on our mums and dads giving us a lift to the beach and return as we didn't live close enough to walk etc. Our parents would take turns dropping us off and then collecting us some hours later. It was either a Long Reef carpark or Dee Why carpark drop off and collect. My mate "Noz", lost his mum at an early age (I never knew how), so his dad brought him up along with his brother as a single dad. Money wasn't available in buckets for either of us but Noz definitely had less on tap than myself. Over our first 2 winters surfing together on Sydneys Nthn beaches, Noz went from going blue in boardies and a long arm vest, to him using my hand me down long arm springy as I was lucky enough to be upgraded to a short arm steamer (some days I wished I still had the long arms ha ha). Often in winter after surfing, we used to hang out in the laundromat as it was a great place to thaw out due to the dryers (old school sauna). If we were lucky and were given some coin, it was Chiko Roll and chips for a after surf scoff as well. Jeez, it was fun and free. Share.........................

There used to be a cake shop I used to call into at Colloroy and get a 'Surfboard" it was a long toasted fruit loaf with lashings of butter and jam . Funny the things you remember ??????
 

FourSquare04

A Local
Sep 11, 2001
6,674
4,458
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40
Wollongong
Great stories from @Zimbooo and @Bendalong+ and this is really what this forum is all about - sharing memories and stories from surfing / snow adventures.

Based on my past, I would say I was a mix of both of you guys!

My Dad in his younger years loved surfing, but then he also loved sailing probably more than surfing, so therefore we would spend weekends sailing up and down Pittwater and / or the Hawkesbury rather than hit the beach (which is what I would have preferred to do!). I don't think I quite appreciated all of the times sailing and on boats as much as I do now at an older age. We would go to the Basin or Towlers depending on winds, sometimes head around to Refuge bay or even as far up as Yeomens/Jerusalem bays to an epic spot called "Castle Lagoon" and stay overnight with other friends & families. Plenty of fishing but never enough time spent surfing / bodyboarding. A few times we would see some guys surfing off "lighthouse rights" below the 'Joey when conditions suited. I do remember a few times battling some pretty epic swells going around West Head on the Yachts. Also recall plenty of times going past Newport pumping or even seeing North Av off chops on the way to Clareville to get the dinghy, was always such a tease.......

As many kids who weren't fortunate enough to live right next to the beach, you would have to rely on parents to get lifts (which face it was next to never!) or wait until you got your license. Wasn't probably until 17 like most teenagers when you got your P's and either a loaned parent car or if you were lucky, your own car to hit the beach. Like a lot of kids, I started out bodyboarding in my teens then by age 18 I had become bored of it and progressed to a short board. These days it's all about the quiver to suit conditions - Mal, volume board or performance shortie.

Probably my best surfing story would be heading up the coast with a mate to his holiday house in Forster late one night just before Easter (Would be 20+ years ago to the day around now), pouring with rain, only to find he didn't have the right key. Anyways we continue on up the coast to Crescent, fortunately had a van we could sleep in the back of 'cause there was no chance of pitching a tent late at night in the torrential downpours that were occurring! We woke the next morning to find pumping 4-5 feet waves reeling down the point, but the pre-easter crowds were in full force so we headed down the back to score another epic point in the same conditions with no one out! I remember surfing twice that day, both solid 2-3 hour sessions in pumping conditions - the sheer exhaustion that resulted. Reckon I was asleep by 8pm that night :D
 

Belly

A Local
Ski Pass
Oct 22, 2003
9,999
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South Coast NSW
Gee all you temperate water kids :)
I grew up surfing in Portland in often oversized 80's tech wetsuits.
Also with divorce, frquent trips to Balnarring (where I probably still hold the U12 batting record for never going out 1 season :) ) and skimming over the reefs on knee high peelers.
And very spoilt, Mum's side folks had holiday house at Moggs creek which endured to my very early 30's, a great escape from young professional Melbs career, cousin still holds but yet to visit under this construct.
Anyways....
I always remember this 1 day, circa 12yo, mum dropped me at Bridgewater all alone (those were the days), abhorent day, howling southerlies basically surfing combo 2ft swell / wind slop. I lasted about 30 minutes, and then I huddled behind the scrub wrapped in my wettie & towell for what felt like an hour til she picked me up. Said she got stuck on the phone. I still give her curry about this story :) .. once you feel that level of cold backcountry snow (now car) camping with modern tech is easy for me (see related thread ha ha)
 

FourSquare04

A Local
Sep 11, 2001
6,674
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Wollongong
Gee all you temperate water kids :)
I grew up surfing in Portland in often oversized 80's tech wetsuits.
Also with divorce, frquent trips to Balnarring (where I probably still hold the U12 batting record for never going out 1 season :) ) and skimming over the reefs on knee high peelers.
And very spoilt, Mum's side folks had holiday house at Moggs creek which endured to my very early 30's, a great escape from young professional Melbs career, cousin still holds but yet to visit under this construct.
Anyways....
I always remember this 1 day, circa 12yo, mum dropped me at Bridgewater all alone (those were the days), abhorent day, howling southerlies basically surfing combo 2ft swell / wind slop. I lasted about 30 minutes, and then I huddled behind the scrub wrapped in my wettie & towell for what felt like an hour til she picked me up. Said she got stuck on the phone. I still give her curry about this story :) .. once you feel that level of cold backcountry snow (now car) camping with modern tech is easy for me (see related thread ha ha)

I don't know how you guys do it down in VIC / SA, especially during the winter months. The water must be so bone chilling cold, but I guess you get accustomed to it. Even up here in Winter, I get the mad pins & needles in the hands / feet from poor circulation during winter and it's not even that cold here in the 'Gong!

For me it kinda defeats the purpose of surfing, even if it is pumping in arctic conditions. It's all about the board shorts, warm water sessions :)
 
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Belly

A Local
Ski Pass
Oct 22, 2003
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South Coast NSW
I don't know how you guys do it down in VIC / SA, especially during the winter months. The water must be so bone chilling cold, but I guess you get accustomed to it. Even up here in Winter, I get the mad pins & needles in the hands / feet from poor circulation during winter and it's not even that cold here in the 'Gong!

For me it kinda defeats the purpose of surfing, even if it is pumping in arctic conditions. It's all about the board shorts, warm water sessions :)
Let's say I've worn my booties probably once since moving to Cbr in 2011. And over the years visiting the folks in Port Stephens would often surf in boardies in winter, everyone else in suits.
I have to say though, there is a dude in Tuross that seems a bit of a character, he is normally the only one getting around in boardies before/after me. Is maybe a bit more hardened to, literally just boardies, I need chest protection of some sort :)
 
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nfip

Cold 'n Rusty
Ski Pass
Jul 24, 2006
22,260
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Great stories gang. ^^
Mine very similiar.
Grew up in Cbr and it was regular weekends and school hols at either Broulee or Mollymook.
My first memories of the ocean are at Mollymook.
Grand parents lived at Port Mac , so every xmas hols was spent at Flynns and Town beach etc
edit : A Shane coolite, with the big wedge keel was the beginner board. the rash from hell was a rite of passage.
Parents divorce and we ended up moving to Noosa Heads early 70's , lived the dream as a grommie living on Hastings St.
So uncrowded Ti Tree and National Park, first point was my backyard for several years.
Single fins and leggies where only just a thing . Was still empty blocks of land on the beach etc
The crew included the boys Zimboo mentioned above , Paul (and Gary) Westaway, Derek Male, Stu McLeary, the Wallace boys.
Parents ended up moving us back to Cbr to do high school , and I discovered skiing late 70's.
Sailing was a regular summer activity on Lake Burley Griffin, the love of the water was further embedded.
Once I got my licence it was weekends to the Coast (or the snow), got myself an on-site van mid 80's near an increasingly well know Bommie. Golden years.
Did another stretch thru the 90's up at Coolum, but the lure of the South Coast, and the Alps was too strong.
Haven't budged from Mollymook since '98, tho must admit I'm starting to look for quiter alternatives again likely further South.
 
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Belly

A Local
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Oct 22, 2003
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South Coast NSW
Watching SPB#2 and walking away. Lot of water moving and some random wide very sizable peaks. 2 went out but struggling, wind too east. Looking like a lay weekend.
 
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gettingtooold

One of Us
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Jul 6, 2012
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geelong
Old mate we used to surf with had an allergy to neoprene. He broke out in horrible rashes if he wore it. Surfed west coast Vic in the middle of winter in boardies and old woollen footy jumpers. Never stopped him if the surf was on. We used to freeze just seeing him paddle out with us.
Had to tell him when he had to get out of the water after a certain time when his chin turned blue.
He was an absolute mad bastard in many ways but have to give him credit for dedication.
 

Zimbooo

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Mid 70s, Noz and I got a lift down to Dee Why and it was cooking.
There were nice waves on the point, however, the banks were on fire from in front of the surf club all the way up to Nomans Land. Noz and I choose the bank one up from the surf club towards Nomans. Perfect 4ft peaks, however, the right-hander had our name on it (Noz and I are natural footers). There was probably 15 or so on the bank in the late afternoon light. Tide was perfect and there were tubes to be had. Everyone on the bank was enjoying a great session, with a great vibe, hooting each other on take-offs and barrels. Noz and I were going to remember this session for a long time. As the light continued to drop and the end of the day drew closer, a dude in a fluro wetty paddled onto our bank from the one further up the beach. Within the first 10 seconds, Fluro man had dropped in on Noz as he took off on a screamer. Noz was totally faded and couldn't make the section, as Fluro man flew down the line. Noz was pissed, "man did you see that dude blatantly drop in on me". (Noz had balls, he looked after himself a lot better than most his age. With his dad at work, his big brother tried to rule the house after school, but Noz wouldn't have a bar of it, the two of them used to have some serious flare-ups. Noz was the guy in the school canteen queue that would stand up to anyone who tried to push ahead of him (even if they were 4 or 5 years above).
Waves kept coming through and Fluro man was on a mission, paddling in, out and around like mad fly on a steak. Within 15-20 mins Fluroman had probably snaked about 10 waves. Another bomb set arrived, Noz was screaming for me to go, just as I was taking off on a double overhead 4 footer LOL, Fluro man had sharked me this time and paddled up the inside of me, and taken the late take off , then gave me the obligatory "hey" which I reluctantly flicked off. The vibe had changed, the crew were all talking about Fluro man. Just as it was time for us to get out and meet our lift home, Noz and I sat patiently out the back, for the "last one of the day". As Noz sat next to me he whispered "Zimboo" the next bomb set is mine, rubbing his hands together with that cheeky grin he had. And sure enough there it was. It was a gem. Noz turned and paddled, Fluro man was paddling and kicking like a maniac, 14yr old Noz stopped for sec, turned and just screamed as loud as he could directly at Fluro Man who was two or three strokes away ........."F@@RK ORF just for once...................please". Fluro man stopped and let him go!!! IT WAS EPIC, WE WILL NEVER FORGET IT. Fluro man was Shaun Tomson, who was in town for the Coke Comp at the time.
 

malas1

One of Us
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Dec 1, 2015
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Old mate we used to surf with had an allergy to neoprene. He broke out in horrible rashes if he wore it. Surfed west coast Vic in the middle of winter in boardies and old woollen footy jumpers. Never stopped him if the surf was on. We used to freeze just seeing him paddle out with us.
Had to tell him when he had to get out of the water after a certain time when his chin turned blue.
He was an absolute mad bastard in many ways but have to give him credit for dedication.
My first year in the water mid 70s was in one of mums hand spun woolen vests. Adelaides mid coast and storm surf further up the gulf.
 

gettingtooold

One of Us
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Jul 6, 2012
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geelong
I was lucky.
Mates mum sewed wetsuits for Rip Curl in the 70's at home.
We used to get all the off cuts and cut them into hexagons and she used to glue and sew them all together to make a sheet.
She then cut and sewed them into wetsuits for us. They looked great being all black on the outside. Turn them inside out and they looked like a bloody jigsaw the scraps being all different colours inside.
They were free and all we had.
Very grateful.
Good on ya Mrs S long gone.
 

Zimbooo

One of Us
Nov 20, 2017
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I was lucky.
Mates mum sewed wetsuits for Rip Curl in the 70's at home.
We used to get all the off cuts and cut them into hexagons and she used to glue and sew them all together to make a sheet.
She then cut and sewed them into wetsuits for us. They looked great being all black on the outside. Turn them inside out and they looked like a bloody jigsaw the scraps being all different colours inside.
They were free and all we had.
Very grateful.
Good on ya Mrs S long gone.
How cool is that!!! Cheers Mrs S!!!
I met a couple of Vicco surfers in Europe (in Mundaka first and then we travelled onto Portugal together) yonks ago.
Never forget one of them paddling around in circles in Peniche (trying to keep warm) in a springy.
Peeps were wearing hoodies and booties, it was bloody cold!!!!!
 

nfip

Cold 'n Rusty
Ski Pass
Jul 24, 2006
22,260
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Yuin Country
To everyone on the North Coast / Mid North Coast / Sydney / Gong / Illawarra area stay safe on higher ground if you can today. Just finished clearing out all my drains and gutters in preparation for the big flood :D

Marooned of sorts at my sis place Brisvegas semi-rural south west .
Was meant to be doing a slow wander home down the North coast but not to be.
Other option another week at Straddie.
Surf looks to be washing machine and roads will be go-slow at best if not no-go.
Going to sit out the next 3 or 4 days and prolly now head home via Tamworth etc on Wednesday and beyond...
Just rang a mate to duck around clear our driveway drains which have low tolerance to this sort of stuff.
 

Fozzie Bear

Where's my flapping ears gone.....
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Jun 2, 2014
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In the woods
Marooned of sorts at my sis place Brisvegas semi-rural south west .
Was meant to be doing a slow wander home down the North coast but not to be.
Other option another week at Straddie.
Surf looks to be washing machine and roads will be go-slow at best if not no-go.
Going to sit out the next 3 or 4 days and prolly now head home via Tamworth etc on Wednesday and beyond...
Just rang a mate to duck around clear our driveway drains which have low tolerance to this sort of stuff.

Was going to say inland drive back and best avoid the Blue Mountains as well. Long long way home.
 

Zimbooo

One of Us
Nov 20, 2017
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Marooned of sorts at my sis place Brisvegas semi-rural south west .
Was meant to be doing a slow wander home down the North coast but not to be.
Other option another week at Straddie.
Surf looks to be washing machine and roads will be go-slow at best if not no-go.
Going to sit out the next 3 or 4 days and prolly now head home via Tamworth etc on Wednesday and beyond...
Just rang a mate to duck around clear our driveway drains which have low tolerance to this sort of stuff.
Yamba surrounds mate? Great place to wait it out and surf in these conditions although winds may be a issue, until the Pacific Hway opens again. From what I could see today the hway was closed near Crowdy? Good luck, safe travel.
 
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Zimbooo

One of Us
Nov 20, 2017
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Brookfield.
Standing by ....
With patience.
I'm getting good at it !
Very nice spot. We drove down there to collect our Cavalier King Charles puppy from a breeder at Upper Brookfield when we moved to Qld.
 

Peli89

One of Us
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Apr 12, 2015
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2 great days of waves for me in SA...
Saturday surfed Parsons - The surf was a peaky 2', with PLENTY of waves up and down the beach. I dont think i have had a surf like that for a while. I lost count of how many waves i caught, but every time i got out the back there was another perfect catchable wave coming through. I think it might have been me having one of those days though - my mates only caught a couple of waves in the 2 hours we surfed. It was a super fun session and I only came in once my arms were about to fall off.

Sunday, back again but the swell was a bit straighter with the offshore wind and waves were just breaking and closing out onto the shallow sand. I only stayed out for about an hour.. I took off on a wave that jacked and i didnt make the landing. the board went under me and i landed on it on my side, into the sand.... I finished that wave with a corked thigh and never really found my mojo after that..
 

FourSquare04

A Local
Sep 11, 2001
6,674
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Wollongong
Another shark attack / incident I see over the weekend - this time back in the SW WA hotspot area at Yallingup

Sounds like classic juvenile white behaviour......
 

Zimbooo

One of Us
Nov 20, 2017
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Forget coming home via


How much does one of those pups cost out of interest there @Zimbooo
That was a long time ago. Would have been around year 2000 (a couple of years after we moved up from Syd in 97).
From memory, she was about $1k back then.
Sadly, inevitably we lost Lexie some years back, we now have 2 x Cavoodles.
The Cavoodles were about $2k each. I believe breeders are now charging $3k+.
Surf is not good up here, onshore E/NE, raining.
 
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Zimbooo

One of Us
Nov 20, 2017
3,547
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Another shark attack / incident I see over the weekend - this time back in the SW WA hotspot area at Yallingup

Sounds like classic juvenile white behaviour......
I saw old mate said he was also using a "Shark Shield" on his SUP. Not a good advertisement for the product.
 
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FourSquare04

A Local
Sep 11, 2001
6,674
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Wollongong
Lunchtime check here in the 'Gong.

Some solid 4ft sets easily pushing through with no one out, a few chocolate tubes to be had but I'm certainly not brave enough to test out the immune system in these conditions :D
 
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Belly

A Local
Ski Pass
Oct 22, 2003
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South Coast NSW
Yep no surfing since last Wednesday and at this stage targeting Thursday. Went into the bay yesterday for some family shopping, took the board and did half a novelty scout but the boy turned a bit feral. Lots of chocolate water.
 
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Drewboy

One of Us
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Aug 21, 2012
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Sydney /Kiama
Wind yesterday turned offshore late afternoon for some dirty water surfing and today a certain place that handles NE winds was 2-3ft but again water quality was very suspect.
 
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