The Surf Thread

Sir Surfalot

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Apr 23, 2000
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Was small-ish but quiet-ish at the Northern Beaches Secret Spot this morning. Four of us (including one friend who has a torn rotator cuff and thought he would be out of the the water for another 3 weeks but the physio said he could give it a go) had a bank to ourselves at bend-in-the-road and got a fair haul of slightly-too-soft, slightly-too-slow, but fun enough waves in a bit over an hour until the wind stepped up a bit and we chucked it in.

Photo - not particularly well-timed, so not showing a set wave or anything - looking up the beach towards where we surfed from further south at the coffee shop afterwards while I was having my apres-surf coffee and chocolate brownie:

F077E294-86DC-4303-8178-BE1F4DE05640.jpeg
 

Sir Surfalot

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Jees did my fingers and toes feel it getting in (and out)...
I am still hanging on for my usual June Long Weekend changeover to my (3/2) steamer. Surfed this morning in my 2mm long-arm springy but it is fast approaching the point I need a bit more rubber. One side-note on that inexpensive springy: I am still pleased with it for the price but it doesn’t dry anywhere near as quickly as a RipCurl Flashbomb - that is to say I am struggling to get the 2mm springy dry from one morning to the next (including hanging it over a frame in front of our slow combustion stove overnight) whereas the Flashbomb material (in my zip-free 3/2 steamer) is pretty much dry enough for a second surf in the afternoon with no wincing in pain from cold dampness. Just generationally better neoprene, but you do pay more for it.

BTW I think my current favourite feature in my Tesla is the heated steering wheel - after an early it is _so_ good to have my fingers warmed :)
 

Zimbooo

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Nov 20, 2017
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Didn't bother surfing this weekend. Spent both days in Noosaville along the river getting into the "Noosa come together festival".
It was an orgasm of local live music. So much talent out busking................loved it!
 

Sir Surfalot

One of Us
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Apr 23, 2000
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This morning (at the NBSS) was pretty much the same as yesterday only with fewer people. Usual suspects surfed the same bank as yesterday with similar results.

Looked like this afterwards - some bigger, some smaller than that, could have done with a bit more push overall, but the water is still nice and there are worse places to be :)

71E61BF2-A19F-41C9-A9C9-46607A94E46E.jpeg
 

Sir Surfalot

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You know it's pretty much flat when Manly is this uncrowded :D
I didn’t surf this morning - was supposed to be doing a day trip to Cooma with my twins so they could buy new ski boots that they have saved up for (but they decided it was a bit early and cold (sigh).

I just checked the camera for the NBSS and i can see two of my friends having a later-than-normal surf (without me to enforce the usual dawn start time) a bit south of where we have been surfing the last few days. Looks to be a bit of a grovel, but possibly better than the next couple of days are going to be - certainly warmer and less windy today. My gut feel is that the winds will kill what swell we have dead for the next couple of days, but I don’t really know.
 
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Sir Surfalot

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but alas, it's shite here
Word in from one of my friends who surfed at the NBSS this morning “it was crap, nothing like yesterday”. I haven’t decided if I will surf tomorrow yet - I was going to be a definite NO until Friday and the temperature forecasts have even been lowered a bit more for tomorrow and Thursday but (since I lack any form of self-control) I suspect if it looks like there are any waves at sunset tonight I will set my alarm to go for an early tomorrow after all.

Also I forgot to mention earlier - arguably off-topic but hey… - my new Ugg boots arrived. I got an email from FCS last week that they had a limited batch of 100% Australian made/owned, hand stitched, generally awesome Ugg boots made for them by Ugg Australia, so I ordered a pair on Sunday and they arrived first thing this morning (plus I got two bonus blocks of cool water wax - I haven’t tried FCS wax but everyone seems to have sold out of green Mr Zogs so I’ll try it soon, plus they came in a nice cloth shopping bag). They were $170 including postage and I think the equivalent ones from Ugg Australia themselves are about $200. On the FCS website anyway if anyone is in the market for a new pair of Uggs.
 

Sir Surfalot

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A bloody danger.... how long before calls to cull....

Wow!

i saw a *lot* of whales yesterday morning when getting my coffee from the Avalon food truck - pretty much a constant line of them - but too far offshore to enjoy watching them going cool whale stuff properly. Even if I got out my handy dandy little telescope I keep in the car (mainly for scoping the ‘Joey from the carpark) I don’t think I’d have been able to have a proper watch of them. Haven’t seen any in close yet this year.
 

Fozzie Bear

A Local
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Jun 2, 2014
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In the woods
Wow!

i saw a *lot* of whales yesterday morning when getting my coffee from the Avalon food truck - pretty much a constant line of them - but too far offshore to enjoy watching them going cool whale stuff properly. Even if I got out my handy dandy little telescope I keep in the car (mainly for scoping the ‘Joey from the carpark) I don’t think I’d have been able to have a proper watch of them. Haven’t seen any in close yet this year.

Were a few off Maroubra on Sunday. Probably 0.5 km off Lurline Bay.
 
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Legs Akimbo

Grumblebum
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Jan 17, 2014
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Wow!

i saw a *lot* of whales yesterday morning when getting my coffee from the Avalon food truck - pretty much a constant line of them - but too far offshore to enjoy watching them going cool whale stuff properly. Even if I got out my handy dandy little telescope I keep in the car (mainly for scoping the ‘Joey from the carpark) I don’t think I’d have been able to have a proper watch of them. Haven’t seen any in close yet this year.
Yesterday at Boat Harbour I heard them exhale. Cruising in the surf zone

IMG_4558_edited-1.jpg
 

Craig B

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Anyone heard otherwise? But I got word the community are extremely worried about 90% of the whale population not showing up yet. And the ones coming up being sick?

Maybe just a delayed migration, would like to know more.
 
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Legs Akimbo

Grumblebum
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Jan 17, 2014
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Coastal suburban boonies.
Anyone heard otherwise? But I got word the community are extremely worried about 90% of the whale population not showing up yet. And the ones coming up being sick?

Maybe just a delayed migration, would like to know more.
They seem to be a few weeks late up here at Port Stephens but in the last few days they have been pouring through. I saw a breach yesterday as I drove down Blanch St, Boat Harbour. It's a good sign if you can whale watch through your windscreen.
 

Sir Surfalot

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Send us a pic of the Uggs Ted! ;)
Ok, you asked for it :)

379019F2-5C34-465D-AE8B-5F93A8BB4260.jpeg


Included the swingtag with the info about the Australian made-ness (etc) of them and also the blocks of wax I got for free with them (but haven’t tried yet so don’t know how it compares with my usual cool water wax). They are pretty comfortable Uggs- a fair bit higher up my leg than my current somewhat worn out RipCurl ones - but then again I guess it is next to impossible for Ugg boots NOT to be comfortable.
 

FourSquare04

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Sep 11, 2001
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Wollongong
Anyone heard otherwise? But I got word the community are extremely worried about 90% of the whale population not showing up yet. And the ones coming up being sick?

Maybe just a delayed migration, would like to know more.

Interesting news eh Craig, haven't heard anything like that on the grapevine, but based off that, wonder if they have delayed their migration north as the water temps have been above average for so long?
 
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Fozzie Bear

A Local
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Anyone heard otherwise? But I got word the community are extremely worried about 90% of the whale population not showing up yet. And the ones coming up being sick?

Maybe just a delayed migration, would like to know more.

Only my own experience....... usually start to see the northerly migration from late April and I frequently sight them when cycling around the Eastern Suburbs or from the gym at Icerbergs pool (haven't been for a month :doh:). This year... the couple I saw on Sunday were the first I've sighted this year.
 

Zimbooo

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Interesting news eh Craig, haven't heard anything like that on the grapevine, but based off that, wonder if they have delayed their migration north as the water temps have been above average for so long?
Only saw a couple of them last week along the open beaches. Normally a procession now.
Believe one came right into Laguna Bay last week and did a "wave to the people" along Main beach.......much to the applause of those holidaymakers who witnessed.
 

Sir Surfalot

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Yeah I surfed :)

I had quite an ok early at the NBSS today - in front of the south end surf club with one mate, and a friendly regular SUP guy was out before us (in pitch blackness when he went out) but he came in shortly after we started our surf about 6:45. One of our other friends surfed up the beach a bit (near two rocks) but it didn’t look as good where she was. Hardly anyone else in the water. Was about 2’ (maybe a bit bigger) on the sets and a lot of north in the swell.

Av was missing the swell entirely when we checked it after our session while getting coffee from the LA carpark food truck. Nobody out and not even close to having a wave. Couple of whales but a really long way out.
 
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Belly

A Local
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Oct 22, 2003
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Went for a lunchtime paddle (everyone said I was mad as it was so cold, but the water was actually real toasty!), was surprisingly really fun around 2-3ft clean E peaks pushing in, got some fun ones and only a couple out braving the arctic air :)
Good for you, I went down and came back. Pretty chunky down here and dead low tide made it look like too hard a work.
I find on work days I have 1 choice to make between 3 broad zones (is no searching for 1 hour) and today I made the wrong choice grrrr
 
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Mister Tee on XC Skis

Not your average unconventional eccentric.
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Melbourne, Lockdown-i-stan .
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Went for a lunchtime paddle (everyone said I was mad as it was so cold, but the water was actually real toasty!), was surprisingly really fun around 2-3ft clean E peaks pushing in, got some fun ones and only a couple out braving the arctic air :)
I swam in the bay twice during the lockdown 4.0 to help my fitness and sanity stay at a minimum level. Even in full wet suit gear that water is cold. 13 Degrees salt water makes your face hurt and then go numb. It makes you gasp for air at first.
 

Sir Surfalot

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I had an early this morning (guess where - specifically the south end in front of the surf club). It really wasn’t much good. Decent size (2-3’ sets with very occasional cleanups too) and some energy but the quality was awful. Plenty of north in the swell but it was straight as often as not everywhere along the beach.

The bank I was on, which I had to myself for most of my session, offered some sort of lefts and rights but mostly shutting down on too-fast-to-make sections and also there was backwash (plus a weird short-period cross-swell making bumpy ribs on the wave face). I got some ok ones, ate it hard on others, and on one - where I went for a fairly optimistic floater across a closeout section and didn’t see a wall of backwash coming at me (as I was on my forehand) and got thrown out of the top of the wave with my board by the backwash explosion then went over the falls tangled with it, smashed my leg on the rail and thought I’d got gashed by my fins. Assumed I would come up with my board in two pieces but miraculously it seems ok and the bruising on my leg should be ok by tomorrow.

My mate with the rotator cuff issues only lasted 1/2 hour or so, another (she is on a surf-every-day-for-2-months personal challenge, and yes she surfed yesterday!) not much longer. The frothiest of our crew - and he could possibly be the biggest frothed since the dawn of frothing - came in just after I did and admitted it was crap. There were some ok waves now and again down in Kiddies Corner and a couple of friends were down there but you needed a MUCH more mally board than my 5’7 to get anything from them.

Av looked like it might have been fun earlier in the morning - when I got my coffee a bit before high tide it was too full/mellow but two body surfers were getting some ok ones courtesy of being able to boost with their fins during the wave.

in all likelihood I’ll surf tomorrow morning but my expectations are that shortly after it gets light enough to see it will fill up with people (being the start of a long weekend in NSW), so probably only a short session for me.
 

Belly

A Local
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Cursed - the boys were certain they saw a shark. Rocked up, checked it, saw the local seal skimming the rocks. Went back to the car and took the board out, bit bumpy but overal quite nice. Boys came in saying they saw a shark, I asked certain it wasn't the seal? They said nup, saw the seal, there was a 1.5m+ shark following it. Board back in the car after a short de-brief. An older fella paddled out who had just suited up but I wasn't having a bar of it. Will try my luck again tomorrow morning as the swell drops.
 

Craig B

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Cursed - the boys were certain they saw a shark. Rocked up, checked it, saw the local seal skimming the rocks. Went back to the car and took the board out, bit bumpy but overal quite nice. Boys came in saying they saw a shark, I asked certain it wasn't the seal? They said nup, saw the seal, there was a 1.5m+ shark following it. Board back in the car after a short de-brief. An older fella paddled out who had just suited up but I wasn't having a bar of it. Will try my luck again tomorrow morning as the swell drops.
How big?
 

Belly

A Local
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Oct 22, 2003
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The Batemans Buoy is an accurate reflection of size for today.
Didn't check open beaches but SPB#2 was breaking so generally your talking 4ft+ for that to be happening (it wasn't perfect, bit of a weird centre bay rip and bit of west in the wind was giving it a devil effect).
Yesterday the bombs on the open beaches were pushing 5ft so it would have to be pushing 6ft on the open aspects today.
So in a nutshell yours (St Helens) and James (Sydney) notes are spot-on. FWIW not seeing St Helens reports lately, but as previously mentioned I only look when there is swell for a point of contrast given I have a travel a few k's for surf ;) . Having said that haven't looked today...
 

parkmonkey

Old n' Crusty
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May 20, 2005
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On a wave or mountain face near you.
Cursed - the boys were certain they saw a shark. Rocked up, checked it, saw the local seal skimming the rocks. Went back to the car and took the board out, bit bumpy but overal quite nice. Boys came in saying they saw a shark, I asked certain it wasn't the seal? They said nup, saw the seal, there was a 1.5m+ shark following it. Board back in the car after a short de-brief. An older fella paddled out who had just suited up but I wasn't having a bar of it. Will try my luck again tomorrow morning as the swell drops.
Its not the ones that are seen you need worry about. What I mean is has there ever been a reported shark attack where the shark was seen before it attacked? I saw two sharks when checking the cove on the south side of broken point while 75+ surfers were on the point no one out in the cove, I watched them swim off to sea and to the south and joined the 75+ surfers on the point. I’m not saying I’d paddle out anywhere just because a shark is spotted but you gotta know they’re out there all the time and with all the cameras on and crowd watching on no one saw the one that hit mick at j bay, then with over 100 people out at snapper when the guy got hit up there, there was no report of anyone seeing this shark and that poor bloke was on the inside of the line up, i only bring up these two because they were on camera. I also had two dolphin size sharks swim right under me at the pass and personally know 3 people who have been attacked
 
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