The Surf Thread

Belly

A Local
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2 X 4/3 chest steamers, 1 3/2 back zip steamer, 1 3/2 short arm chest steamer. Plus 2 wetsuit tops and rashies.
I have more boards than wetties but don't tend to retire boards like the wetties.
For those that get the Need Essentials emails, I counted 10 boards Laurie Towner is taking around Aus. I don't have that many in my garage, yet..
 

parkmonkey

Old n' Crusty
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On a wave or mountain face near you.
Do you have more wetsuits than boards?
Personal quiver
5’2” foil board
5’9” Hayden misc twin
5’9” tomo sci-fi
5’10” al merrick rocket 9
5 something tomo vanguard
5’10” MR super twin
5’10” nsp wing foil sup
7’0” Simon Anderson
9’1” Donald Takayama

In the last 12 months I’ve surfed only a handful of sessions not on the foil but the trip to noosa a few weeks back I did surf the Hayden shapes at boiling pot, the longboard at little cove and the foil at granite :)
 

Paperboy

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I had a Patagonia wetsuit with what I think is this backwing arrangement of which you speak. A well constructed wettie - much better quality in terms of craftsmanship than a rip curl or billabong etc. But it was bulky and relatively inflexible. I much preferred the Aussie mainstream brands.

I think chestzip wetties address the flushing issue pretty well.

After decades of preferring Rip Curl, I’m now using quicksilver. They fit around the same, but I much prefer the QS chest zip. That’s it.
I’ve got a QS syncro back zip steamer which has this thin inner WarmFlight® thermal lining seperate from the back panel zip to stop water flush, seems to work. It’s a lot warmer than my old suit and QS wetties fit us perfect, unlike rip curl wetties which seem to have a different cut.
 
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Sir Surfalot

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I have a 3/2 RipCurl Flashbomb zip-free steamer (about 3 years old now), the NCHE 2mm long arm short leg zip-free springy I bought a couple of months ago and a 1mm long-arm top (and 1mm neoprene boardies) - plus a few rashies and boardies. Gets me through at the NBSS just fine. As long as we have the fire on - which it usually is in winter - I can get my steamer dried ok from one day’s early to the next (actually the RipCurl steamer dries more quickly than the NCHE springy).
 
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ben0

Hard Yards
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How’s this run of swell we have been having on the NB. Such fun surfable waves every day…wind turned light offshore and champagne conditions at Queensy this arvo. Mix of swell made it super peaky too. Photo is north of Queensie.

41C90C9A-78E3-439E-A56F-FEDA043EACA7.jpeg
 

SnowBound

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Really fun session at MV this morning.
Lumpy and rippy at the start, but cleaned right up as the tide turned after 8.30

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Great shots.

I got it very wrong this morning with a mate. We paddled out at Warriewood circa 6:45am because Southy and Northy looked blown out. Warriewood was smaller and more tolerable but still super junky. Low tide made it hard yakka and honestly, not fun.

Seeing pictures from later in the day made me kick myself.
 

Sir Surfalot

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I surfed (usual time, usual place) and it was busy. Was 2-3’ (occasional bigger ones) again suffered badly from “lockdown specialist” surfers.

One particular incident I am still steamed about: quite a nice young girl (maybe 12-13 YO, don’t know her name but she and her younger sister surf on and off at the NBSS, both have nice new-ish shortboards) was paddling back out, couple of metres across from me, and a decent set wave came through - a straight one, no reason for anyone to go on it. Unknown muppet beginner decides to paddle into it, took off, totally kooked the takeoff straight into this girl, who had duck dived as hard as she could. His board slammed her and her board (then the tangled mess nearly hooked me up in it too). Stupid kook beginner untangles his board and paddles off without apologising or checking the girl is ok. I paddled across to check she was ok - she was a hit shook up but looked like she didn’t get hit herself - and saw a big chunk out of the rail and bottom of her board about 6” down from the nose. Told the muppet - fairly “directly” - what he had done and what was he going to do about it, and he just continued paddling off saying something about having already apologised. Girl bust into tears at her board being stuffed and paddled in. My friends had seen what happened and piled onto the kook too with various lifestyle advice - last seen he had paddled way out near the point to contemplate his life choices. Doesn’t fix the girl’s board of course and I was just disgusted he didn’t go in with her to offer to pay for it being fixed or at least to make sure she was ok.

Most of my friends decided around then we’d had enough of it - just too much stupid/careless stuff going on in general, outside of that one incident - so we went in and went home.
 
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Annabuzzy

That's 'ma Lord Buzzy to you
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Evicted spiders from bike and went for ride. A few whales off the coast (keeping their distance from Covid central). Da Bra looked pretty good. A couple of banks and plenty of head high waves. Would have been fast on the lower tide but makeable with a bit more water. @Annabuzzy hope you get a few.
Not yet. A bit later for me
 

Paperboy

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I surfed (usual time, usual place) and it was busy. Was 2-3’ (occasional bigger ones) again suffered badly from “lockdown specialist” surfers.

One particular incident I am still steamed about: quite a nice young girl (maybe 12-13 YO, don’t know her name but she and her younger sister surf on and off at the NBSS, both have nice new-ish shortboards) was paddling back out, couple of metres across from me, and a decent set wave came through - a straight one, no reason for anyone to go on it. Unknown muppet beginner decides to paddle into it, took off, totally kooked the takeoff straight into this girl, who had duck dived as hard as she could. His board slammed her and her board (then the tangled mess nearly hooked me up in it too). Stupid kook beginner untangles his board and paddles off without apologising or checking the girl is ok. I paddled across to check she was ok - she was a hit shook up but looked like she didn’t get hit herself - and saw a big chunk out of the rail and bottom of her board about 6” down from the nose. Told the muppet - fairly “directly” - what he had done and what was he going to do about it, and he just continued paddling off saying something about having already apologised. Girl bust into tears at her board being stuffed and paddled in. My friends had seen what happened and piled onto the kook too with various lifestyle advice - last seen he had paddled way out near the point to contemplate his life choices. Doesn’t fix the girl’s board of course and I was just disgusted he didn’t go in with her to offer to pay for it being fixed or at least to make sure she was ok.

Most of my friends decided around then we’d had enough of it - just too much stupid/careless stuff going on in general, outside of that one incident - so we went in and went home.
So sick of kooks like this, it’s happening more and more with try hards thinking they can surf. It’s similar to people hitting your car in carparks without leaving a note or saying anything. My other pet hate about kooks is when you have the inside and they still paddle for the wave and then fall off right in front of you. Poor girl, hopefully her dad can fix her board.
 

Craig B

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Yep that's farked Ted, and those kooks who paddle their hardest into a closeout while you're paddling back out and in danger. I yell at them well before they get close to catching the wave to scare them back off. The ones that also paddle so hard to catch the wave without looking left or right, ie just putting in all the effort to just get the wave and then drop in. Yelling and whistling people off the waves is the only way in crowded surf unfortunately.
 

Sir Surfalot

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Yeah exactly this @Paperboy and @Craig B - you can both picture exactly how it went down :(

It’s ok to be a beginner. It’s not ok to be a ********.

The dad of those girls does surf with them sometimes but I didn’t see him today - maybe mum or a non-surfing friend took them today? Couldn’t find the girl with the damaged board when I came in 10-15 minutes later either so I couldn’t even say anything to her then. Hope as you say her parents can fix the board quick-smart or at worst gaffer-tape it (although I can imagine a 12 year old girl would HATE a gaffer-taped board which was otherwise perfect) so she can get back into the water for the rest of her school holidays. (Cheeky side-note: Surfboard repairs = essential services!)
 

Annabuzzy

That's 'ma Lord Buzzy to you
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Me: How was the surf?!
Him: Yeah, nah there's few out there eh...
Me: Nah, I meant waves
Screen Shot 2021-07-03 at 3.47.09 pm.png
Haha I was out there today. As you saw, 2 foot and occasional 3 foot. A carnage of clueless softboard, mid length and occasional longboard kookdom. I felt scared a few times!

Got a few nice waves, which were typically the smaller ones hugging the bank without 20 clueless folk dropping in and aiming straight for shore in a kamikaze stance


200.gif
 

Sir Surfalot

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I did fairly ok this morning (NBSS, south end), got in the water in the dark at about 6:45 along with some friends to beat the “lockdown specialist” surfing brigade, who fortunately turned up in lower numbers than the last couple of days.

I sat inside and got a couple of dozen smaller ones (2-3’ range). It was a bit of a bunfight for the (not frequent enough) 3’+ outside ones so I just went for quantity - and to be fair the smaller ones actually ran a bit better. Up the beach looked straight and poor quality. One of my friends went up to the north end this morning after having a good but busy session up there yesterday early - he was back at my car with his coffee when I came in and he said (1) they had a shark cruise through across the bank inside them, and (2) he copped a hard hit to the head from his board on a spectacular wipeout and he had a fair sort of bruise starting to show just above one eye. Said he had a bad headache starting from it, I checked briefly he was ok to drive home and told him to get straight to the hospital if it got any worse or he started feeling sick…

The surreal lockdown moment of the morning was when one of the regular early morning (3-4 days/week) guys got into a shouting match with someone - usual argument about who dropped in on whom when there are right and left runners and a slow fade/reform section inside. The other fellow started into an angry “are you are local - you’re not a local, F off to where you belong…” sort of tirade. Weird thing was pretty much everyone in the water knew each other, but nobody recognised the guy going on the locals rant. Nothing came of it, but it was just an odd moment.

I think I’ll have a break from surfing the next couple of mornings. Not that I am doing anything else and I reckon there will be waves, just i have a pain threshold for lockdown+holiday crowds and associated madness in the water and I just don’t want to be part of it for a while. Two of my friends only gave it 1/2 hour before going home this morning for the same reason.
 

Annabuzzy

That's 'ma Lord Buzzy to you
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I did fairly ok this morning (NBSS, south end), got in the water in the dark at about 6:45 along with some friends to beat the “lockdown specialist” surfing brigade, who fortunately turned up in lower numbers than the last couple of days.

I sat inside and got a couple of dozen smaller ones (2-3’ range). It was a bit of a bunfight for the (not frequent enough) 3’+ outside ones so I just went for quantity - and to be fair the smaller ones actually ran a bit better. Up the beach looked straight and poor quality. One of my friends went up to the north end this morning after having a good but busy session up there yesterday early - he was back at my car with his coffee when I came in and he said (1) they had a shark cruise through across the bank inside them, and (2) he copped a hard hit to the head from his board on a spectacular wipeout and he had a fair sort of bruise starting to show just above one eye. Said he had a bad headache starting from it, I checked briefly he was ok to drive home and told him to get straight to the hospital if it got any worse or he started feeling sick…

The surreal lockdown moment of the morning was when one of the regular early morning (3-4 days/week) guys got into a shouting match with someone - usual argument about who dropped in on whom when there are right and left runners and a slow fade/reform section inside. The other fellow started into an angry “are you are local - you’re not a local, F off to where you belong…” sort of tirade. Weird thing was pretty much everyone in the water knew each other, but nobody recognised the guy going on the locals rant. Nothing came of it, but it was just an odd moment.

I think I’ll have a break from surfing the next couple of mornings. Not that I am doing anything else and I reckon there will be waves, just i have a pain threshold for lockdown+holiday crowds and associated madness in the water and I just don’t want to be part of it for a while. Two of my friends only gave it 1/2 hour before going home this morning for the same reason.
Yeah sometimes you need a mental health day
 

POW Hungry

Old n' Crusty
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On ya Ted, stay positive.

If you wish to continue to enjoy the circus, check out Murray's (from @sproutdaily) insta story from this morning...
I'd be offering a 'public safety enforcement service' by marching that guy straight to the beach, I reckon.
 
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Sir Surfalot

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But definitely a short board day
Put a decent leggie on it - something stronger than a thin competition one. Even where I surfed (at the gutless end of the beach) there was a fair bit of energy and one of my friends snapped her legrope yesterday.

I usually use one of those FCS Freedom leashes on my grovelling shortboard (the 5’7 that I end up riding most of the time) and I really like them (they are little thin comp leashes - you can’t feel them and the braiding makes them almost never tangle, even with low-speed spin-and-go takeoffs) but I have broken two of them in the last 18 months and if I’d have wiped out today I reckon I might have broken mine today.
 
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POW Hungry

Old n' Crusty
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I usually use one of those FCS Freedom leashes on my grovelling shortboard (the 5’7 that I end up riding most of the time) and I really like them (they are little thin comp leashes - you can’t feel them and the braiding makes them almost never tangle, even with low-speed spin-and-go takeoffs) but I have broken two of them in the last 18 months.
Not a fan of the 'freedom leashes' myself, I've pulled one through the glass of my board (rail) before. Of course it could happen with any leash but feel the over-braid creates more friction as stretched rather than the slick traditionally leashes.
 
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Annabuzzy

That's 'ma Lord Buzzy to you
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Put a decent leggie on it - something stronger than a thin competition one. Even where I surfed (at the gutless end of the beach) there was a fair bit of energy and one of my friends snapped her legrope yesterday.

I usually use one of those FCS Freedom leashes on my grovelling shortboard (the 5’7 that I end up riding most of the time) and I really like them (they are little thin comp leashes - you can’t feel them and the braiding makes them almost never tangle, even with low-speed spin-and-go takeoffs) but I have broken two of them in the last 18 months and if I’d have wiped out today I reckon I might have broken mine today.
I’m not sure what leggie I have on it to be honest. I just put one on each board and only take it off when they break! Which hopefully doesn’t happen often.

It was definitely 2 and occasional 3 foot again. An absolutely beautiful day. The waves were probably not as good as yesterday - the tide had them breaking into a big gutter. As with yesterday a higher than normal quota of totally clueless morons. I blame the wetsuit manufacturers - they’ve made winter surfing too comfortable.
 

Belly

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Still an easy 6ft on the south coast.
Cleaner more organised surf today.
Yesterday I had a re-form grovel.
Today I spent a good hour watching in between boy play. When I had a chance to have a consistent watch I found myself going that's a 3 footer, so that is a 4 footer, and so on. Let's say I was seeing bomb sets that I struggled to put a number on.
The local bank is showing potential on the 3-4 footers though.
 
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Fozzie Bear

Where's my flapping ears gone.....
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On ya Ted, stay positive.

If you wish to continue to enjoy the circus, check out Murray's (from @sproutdaily) insta story from this morning...
I'd be offering a 'public safety enforcement service' by marching that guy straight to the beach, I reckon.

Manly was nuts. Bondage level nuts. And the swimmers holding Covid party outside the surf club.......

Anyhoo, woke up sparrow's, got lost in the dark and ended up cycling to Manly. Bonus whale spotted from North Head lookout doing a pike with half twist. Ferry back to city to save legs from traffic bingo, 20km and some nasty hills.

DSC_3166.jpg
 
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Fozzie Bear

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.... As with yesterday a higher than normal quota of totally clueless morons. I blame the wetsuit manufacturers - they’ve made winter surfing too comfortable.

Plus wetsuits these days don't feel like you have 5 kg weights attached to each arm, so easier to spend more time in the water before being stuffed.
 
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Dave6

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Pumping up here.
8/10 on the Swellnet report that you don't see too often. I like this advice from the report too: "Don’t forget to remember your level of ability before attempting today’s larger waves and your choice of location to surf" - which is what I had decided for myself already. I am hoping that Wednesday/Thursday will be a bit more manageable.
 
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SnowBound

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Paddled out South Narra circa 6:30am - already a couple of guys out (a sign of how busy it was going to get).

By 7am, the whole line up was packed.

And those who know Narra, that's a long stretch of beach to be crammed.

I was actually surprised.

Thought the cold morning would keep people out of the water. Nope. Was like Christmas holidays busy...

By 7:30am my mate and I was so frustrated by the drop ins and crowds we packed it in.
 

FourSquare04

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Happened late arvo. First thoughts were likely a Bull after a lot of rain up that way recently, but could also be a juvenile white which would not surprise me…

480A25DD-538B-40F9-B6A2-2B6150765588.png
 
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