Surf The Surf Thread
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A bit of wind, a bit of swell. Birubi Beach.
We kept it secret for years. First surfed out there April 91.
Was only a few boogers and a few stand-ups that would hit it.
No skis or anything.
Never a photog. Wasn't allowed.
Cheyne Horan surfed it with pagey back in 93. Compared it to OTW on the North shore.
By the late 90's there were heaps of booger kids hitting it. Hardly any stand-ups.
Then a few photgos swum out with their rigs. And that . Was that.
Haha, that's my best mate going over the falls 0:35
I've been a bit quiet but still surfing regularly.
Said goodbye to dear old Judd on Tues 7/6 who used to feature regularly on my camping weekend warrior trip reports.
Washed it off with a nice surf on Weds 8/6 on the first day of the south swell.
Then I went to Melbourne for a footy and urban surf combo, got an SMS at 7pm whilst having a frothy at the footy that my Saturday sessions were cancelled due to the incident, bummer!!
Drive halfway home on the Saturday, checked Cape Conran and it was stormy but a few hearty souls we're giving it a crack. It was cold, I only had the fish and it was 3pm+ so I passed it up.
Finished the drive on Sunday morning to return home to a sick family, me included, and the boy had multiple days in hospital with flu type A, can't take a trick!!
Managed 2 fun sessions last Wednesday and Thursday when the swell eased.
Friday was maxing and dropped a note into swellnet, still solid on Saturday when we went for family beach play.
Sunday was magic, pretty much the last day of the swell (after I surfed the first day the Wednesday before), there is a really reliable bank in town and I got some great waves!!!
Back to work this week with a thud
Hit the ocean for a Manly to Shelley swim for the first time in a few weeks. Last time in, the water was 22c. Has dropped to low 18's according to B & B chalk, so wore extra rubber. Certainly felt cooler but more than manageable in the 2mm/3mm steamer wetsuit. Not much surf to report, but water choppy with a summer like nor'easter roughing up the surface.
Yeah I surfed in my 3/2 short arm steamer on Wednesday, it was bearable. So I stupidly surfed in my 2/2 short arm steamer on Thursday, I froze. On Sunday I brought out the 4/3, super toasty ha ha. Won't be going back from the 4/3's til at least September now.
Looked very nice yesterday, a few head high peelers brushed by a sou'wester . Much smaller in Manly today. Water temp bumped up to 19c.
Yep, looked real nice. A few bazza’s around on social media from there
Been in Tassie, paddled out today so slow, straight 3ft leftovers as everyone else said as good as it gets yesty :/ Forecast it a week out as well..
So I completely ruptured my achilles tendon last weekend.
That’s me done for a while unfortunately.
Off to the injury thread I go.
However before I do,
Some wicked footage of Manly the other day floating around on Insta.
Pumping!
Ouch!!! Did 3 hamstring tendons 8 years ago after getting chicken winged in the surf near Ulladulla. Reattached and a six month rehab. Not sure what the protocol for achilles tendons is.
Went for a late family beach walk on Thursday. It was long period deceptively pumping straight out of the east stuff. You'd generally call it 3ft but there was 1 oversized set that came in during our 15 minutes of beach time that would have been 4ft.
Couldn't surf this week, I'll be going for a grovel leftovers check in a while.
W.P. has good clean waves today
but I am having a day of CBF syndrome.
However I am going to visit my G.f. today so some activtity
will follow but not surfing today.
It has been quiet on the Vic. surf front recently . I would be interested in going for a paddle if there is no fresh snow to ski on ....maybe next week when I come back from skiing at Falls Creek.
Looks niceW.P. has good clean waves today
but I am having a day of CBF syndrome.
However I am going to visit my G.f. today so some activtity
will follow but not surfing today.
It has been quiet on the Vic. surf front recently . I would be interested in going for a paddle if there is no fresh snow to ski on ....maybe next week when I come back from skiing at Falls Creek.
1-2 foot - knee to shoulder high - at the Bra today. Waves were average but what a beautiful day.
Had a lifeguard drop in on me today in his “lifeguard” emblazoned wettie…which is fine…it wasn’t intentional…originally…but having dropped in and and seen me he just went on surfing, leaving me burnt. No apology. Weird, as Council have the beach plastered with surf etiquette signs (like …I dunno…don’t drop in) but their own employees (one at least) seemingly behave as if those rules don’t apply to them.
Anyway surfed my Evo which hadn’t had much use. Definitely fine in small waves and crumbling ones maybe it’s forte.
I now have FOMO and wished I had pulled my finger out and gone surfing today.As Sir surf a lot once said “one more day you grow older that you did not
surf”.Last edited:
Yep beautiful day on the east coast. Same down here, waist high. I surfed my mid length, it goes well as a groveller but thinking about a true short board groveller, pretty much the last gap in my quiver.
Long story short, looking around 3-6 months recovery
Sorry to hear @Belly, great memories camping with you and Juddy at Moruya
Another 1 foot to maybe 2 foot day at the Bra today - knee to at best belly button high waves.
A little better shape to them today but even with my biggest hybrid board I was at the very edge of enough litreage. Should have pulled out the mid length. I had fun though, and just knocking on the door of getting back to base surf fitness, which helps.
Has been micro at South Steyne, waist e high at Queenscliff. Nice day for a Shelly swim.Finally got back in the water on the weekend! What a glorious weekend it was....the only problem was a complete lack of swell
Well I got wet and the water temp was amazing for late June, but it was seriously grovelling at best. I came to see just how un paddle fit I was, surfed a couple of tiny 1-2ft waves and paddled around for a bit. Even took my young fella down to the beach late morning and had a swim in Boardies it was that warm!
