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Discussion in 'Alpine & Southern' started by Donza, Jun 8, 2010.
great Go pro footage.
Sweet vid though.
solid start to winter here, great waves for my new board water temp on the slide now though
Very solid at Maroubra this morning, sets in the 8-10' range.
very nice video.
just wondering how you mounted it? was in on a helmet?
Also where some of the videos you have made on the 13th beach coast line?
Its not mine....got it in a email..
But i can tell its mounted on the deck plate.
yeah i'd say 13th, the island...
man i've never seen Vicco barrel that nice and warm looking
this is one of my mates ...
my coast is 2-3 feet.
You must have be missing it then Donza. This was around 8:00 am, the faces were well overhead and the bomb sets were bigger, but no one riding as it was shutting down. realsurf.com was calling it a couple of meters of 11-13 second period swell (Northern Beaches emphasis), but a lot of the waves I saw were larger than the pictures posted there. It was definately a lot bigger than the 2-3' down your wave otherwise I would have been surfing rather than cycling (stuffed shoulders means I can't paddle fast enough to get into waves much above 4-6'), although it looks as if it has dropped off now.
nah seriously I checked the beach, live right beside it every morning...
it was only 2-3 with maybe an odd and I mean odd 4 footer.
it was a real backing off swell as well...
a few of the reefs outside had a couple...but......
maybe the arrow was pointed at the Bra...it does happen..
That was probably it, a south swell backing off, so the tail was further north. I've been for a 35-40km cycle each morning this week and dropped past Maroubra for a peek at what I was missing. And it has been very solid each day.
Anyway, forcast is for it to build again with 3 meter / 15 second period swell later in the week. So it's looking very solid again for the wild water men this weekend.
I'm guessing you're measuring differently to what we use Taxman??
I use the general rule that 2ft is about waist to shoulder high, 3ft head high, 4ft a bit overhead, 6ft double overhead, 8ft 3x overhead etc.
I surfed North Steyne this morning and it was 3ft with the odd 4ft set with the lefts reeling off as usual.
And 4S4, i've been mainly surfing Manly and Curly with a couple of sessions at the Bower and Southy.
Went back to SA for 2 weeks and scored great waves at an undisclosed location
You must be midgets then Or you are using the wanky Hawaiian system of measuring the back of the wave. Sorry for the confusion, but when I see a surfer on a wave and the face is well over his stand height, I would assume the wave would have at least a 6' face. For future reference I'll make sure I clarify wave face height.
Now, if you are talking about swell height................
I was out at Maroubra yesterday morning. I donâ€™t like putting numbers on height but it was definitely overhead. Here are some photos from Aquabumps...
that second picture has a heavy barrel on it
really nice photos
they are 4 footers...
are you judging that by the surfers off the back of the wave in the trough?
Solid 4 with probably 4-6 footers coming through on the sets I'd say.
I'm just judging by 20 years of surfing I guess you'd say...I just know how big waves are...
Sizing surf has no logical explantion..the hawaiian method, the face measurement etc etc..
i've seen 15 footers with 30 foot faces...
I tend to agree with rangerider... 4-6ft
That first shot would be around 5ft and the second 4-5ft.
I call the first one 4 feet cause being the Bra thats a fair peak...its literally just starting to chuck...
seriously the time he bottom turns...stands up and a little cutty in the pocket it will be 4...if that..
the 2nd one is thicker..and further down the line..but .for me anyways calling that a five footer is a wee bit over ambitious...
I say 4-6 foot. But I reckon size calls are getting more and more conservative. I remember "that" day when SA first rode his thruster at Bells and the call was it was 20 foot. Nowadays I reckon people'd be calling it 8-10 foot with 12 foot sets, or something like that.
Who knows? For me it's more a case of the surf is "the right size for the mal"..."the right size for my really foamed up shortboard"..."the right size to use a normal shortboard"..."whoa, that's starting to look pretty sizeable, but I'll still go out"...and, finally..."are you kidding me? I'll DIE. I'm not paddling out there!"
Actually, that lefty looks bigger than 6 foot on my measurement. That's at least triple overhead unless the surfer's a midget. 8 foot on that one, and the foamy is a good solid 4-5 foot with clearly bigger ones coming through.
I'd call this 6-8 Buzzy
Yeah me too though I'm pretty conservative. It's probably closer to 8 than 6.
Its further down the line as well....
thats a fairly fun wave.....lots of water moving.
Well waves have certainly gotten a whole lot smaller than when I started surfing 35 years ago.
Well did some research last night and it seems people here started (though not consistently) to adopt the Hawaiian system of calling wave height some time in the 1990's. Now the funny thing is, the Hawaiian system only came from the North Shore and was designed to make punters think the surf was rubbish and not worth heading out; hence it consistently under estimates wave height, is inaccurate and subjective as it can only be measured from in the surf.
A perinent quote from my research:
"In Hawaii, we "measure from the back," meaning, we essentially cut the wave face height in half.
The reason (I think) is because of Californians in the 50s and 60s sandbagging to surprise newcomers to the islands.
I know it's stupid, but it's the standard that everyone uses.
Nowadays, if you don't call it like the locals do, you'll be put down bigtime.
The local media, especially the radio, perpetuate the underestimating.
So, three feet is head high, six is double overhead.
Don't even ask what twenty-five is.
When I was working at the Eddie in 89, I asked the judging panel how big they thought it was.
There was a long silence before someone (I thinkJack Shipley) said, "Overhead!"
I guess only Ken Bradshaw is allowed to make the call at Waimea."
So on my ride past Maroubra today I observed waist high wave faces, which would probably mean 12"-18" on the wankor scale.
I just reckon if a wave is at least 3 times higher than the height of the surfer (ie 15-18 foot face) then surely it has to be 8 foot? It's just verging on the ridiculous when triple overhead becomes 4-6 foot, imho, and no disrespect intended.
Even when I was younger (and wave estimates seemed to be higher) there was that machismo element where it was far cooler to underestimate wave height than underestimate it.
I guess its all realitive to the company you keep as well..ability of surfer wise.
That's the implicit reason for taking that view.
But look, I surfed with a former world champ (indeed two) a few other top 16'ers (it was the 80's) a number of others who had a deal of competitive success, and a number of others who could have had success but couldn't be buggered. Inm other words, I'll put my peer group up against your peer group! But just because world champ no 1 says "oh, it's 4 foot" when the wave faces are, say, 5 times the height of an average surfer, it doesn't mean I have to say "yeah, you're right". I can also say "get your hand off it world champ. That's x foot."
my peer group are my work colleagues whose jobs are pro surfers...among other things.
the way waves are portrayed in the media in the past 10 years has changed dramatically. So many more hollower yet heavier waves.
Ok, you "beat" me! But my point remains. Just because someone's a good surfer doesn't mean they're the be all and end all of measuring things.
Which just shows how stupid it all is.... Take the wave height = (face height / 2) - x; where x = the size you think your balls are.
There are stand ups lingering around too.
I didn't mean to beat you....its not about that..
its just that measuring waves is a subjective thing. people with more experience just measure it differently.
Under waist high
Just under head high
A bit over head
Just under double over head
Double over head
Over double over head
Triple over head.
Head high to who? A hobbit, kneeboarder, normal person?
Yep thats about it...
wedges, below sea level kegs and thick deep sea ledges have changed it all.
Ok, I think 2x overhead is 6ft and 3x is 8ft.
The line between 8-10ft is blurred but I don't go out in above 8ft really.
Had a fun surf at Curly this morning, was 3-4ft with the odd 5ft bomb which meant it was head high to 1.66xhead high
Yeah waves looked decent enough this morning...3-4 clean SE swell...looked really nice on the outside reefs..i'd say they would have been 6 easily...
I'll prob go for a paddle tomorrow...
not sure where...
maybe Wombarra, maybe Bombie rights...might even venture down to Minnos or wedge...
Incredibly fat at Maroubra this morning. Bondi had a nice left going into icebergs. Would be better at low
I should have out a in there. I was never serious about the raising thing and never thought you were!
forking hell I'm sick of being out of the water. Work has rooted me for three weeks.
I've only had one morning off in the last 3 weeks and that was two weeks ago, my last surf
Have got up for a couple of earlys but got nothing and its dark here when i'm finished work.
Story of my life..
the worst thing is we both work in the industry..so we are surrounded.
I think i'm on a 22day straight run right now, hopefully get a day or two off next week.
i'm lucky the weekennds have co-incided with waves
new steamer and all as well makes it more motivating
My back's been buggered for two weeks, meaning I've missed the most consistent rideable conditions in eons. Argh.